Frugal Living: 25 new messages in 9 topics

Saturday, February 16, 2008

25 new messages in 9 topics - digest

misc.consumers.frugal-living
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living?hl=en

misc.consumers.frugal-living@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: How many therms (natural gas) do you use per day (per month)?
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/99d004d38152f87d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 14 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 4:29 pm
From: bigjimpack@gmail.com

For the past billing cycle, I used 5.96 therms per day. Last year I
used 6.81 per day. Average temp was 37 F both years. I have replaced
half of the windows in our mid '30's home. I think this helped. I
will replace the others this year and see if I can lower usage more.

On Feb 16, 3:24 pm, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
<donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I'm curious how I compare with others in my natural gas usage.
>
> I used 120 therms in the past 30 days (about 4 therms per day).
> HOW MANY THERMS DID YOU USE LAST MONTH?
>
> I do realize that there are _many_ factors that affect usage but there is
> only one number for your final usage. That's what I'd like to compare.

== 2 of 14 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 4:53 pm
From: gheston@hiwaay.net (Gary Heston)

In article <yvItj.756$pl4.153@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net>,
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>I'm curious how I compare with others in my natural gas usage.

>I used 120 therms in the past 30 days (about 4 therms per day).
>HOW MANY THERMS DID YOU USE LAST MONTH?

Mine isn't billed in therms, but in cubic feet; between the two houses,
21600 in January.

>I do realize that there are _many_ factors that affect usage but there is
>only one number for your final usage. That's what I'd like to compare.

Since we just went through water usage, let me preempt the next inquiries:

Electricity 1,011 KWH
Sewer $23.04
Garbage pickup $29.00
Tax $15.01

As above, that's for two houses, total of about 1900 square feet, one
occupant.

Gary

--
Gary Heston gheston@hiwaay.net

http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/

We live in amazing times, when one person can invent both the Internet
and global warming, then get awarded a "peace prize".

== 3 of 14 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 5:17 pm
From: Marsha

Gary Heston wrote:
> Mine isn't billed in therms, but in cubic feet; between the two houses,
> 21600 in January.

> Since we just went through water usage, let me preempt the next inquiries:
>
> Electricity 1,011 KWH
> Sewer $23.04
> Garbage pickup $29.00
> Tax $15.01
>
> As above, that's for two houses, total of about 1900 square feet, one
> occupant.
>
>
> Gary
>

Is your garbage pickup through city workers or a private entity? It
seems a lot of people on this group pay more for garbage pickup than we
do, which is $30.00 every 3 months, unlimited. We are in a suburb. The
nearest city used to get free pickup, but they now have to pay an extra
$10.00/month.

Marsha/Ohio

== 4 of 14 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 5:41 pm
From: "pepita@prodigy.net"

My bill states 27 days in the last billing period. 158ccf is the
amount of natural gas that I am being billed for. Is that the same
unit you are referencing?

== 5 of 14 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 5:46 pm
From: "pepita@prodigy.net"

On Feb 16, 8:17 pm, Marsha <m...@xeb.net> wrote:
> Is your garbage pickup through city workers or a private entity? It
> seems a lot of people on this group pay more for garbage pickup than we
> do, which is $30.00 every 3 months, unlimited.

In my city (CT, USA) we have to contract with a private company for
trash removal. There are about a half dozen companies to choose from,
and the price is very close for all of them We pay $24 per month for
weekly trash and recycling pickup.

== 6 of 14 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 5:50 pm
From: "pepita@prodigy.net"

On Feb 16, 8:41 pm, "pep...@prodigy.net" <scrapquil...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> My bill states 27 days in the last billing period. 158ccf is the
> amount of natural gas that I am being billed for. Is that the same
> unit you are referencing?

I should probably have mentioned 30degrees F average daily temperature
for this billing period. 2200 Square foot house, everyone home all
day long, this includes heat and hot water.

== 7 of 14 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 6:08 pm
From: "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"

On Sat, 16 Feb 2008 23:53:17 GMT, Tony Hwang wrote:
> What is therm? Here in Alberta measurement is by the Giga Joule.

Hi Tony Hwang in Australia,

The average American houshold (supposedly) uses:
43,302 kJ/day = 41,045 Btu/day = 0.4105 therm/day
to heat their hot water (kindly calculated by Jeff at
62 US gallons of water raised 80F (27C) each day or 2 1/2
CCF/month.

That would be, in Australian ... something like
0.043302 GigaJoule's per day or 15.8 Giga Joules per year (1.32 Giga Joules
per month on average) just to heat the hot water.

Do you Australians use about 1.32 Giga Joules per month for your hot water?

As for the quantity, 62 US gallons a day would be 1,886 gallons per month,
or 7,135 liters a month in Australian.

This is just for your hot-water needs (120 degree F or 49 degree Celcius
setting on your hot-water heater thermostat).

Does that sound reasonable in Australia?

== 8 of 14 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 6:13 pm
From: Nate Nagel

Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator wrote:
>>I used 120 therms in the past 30 days (about 4 therms per day).
>>HOW MANY THERMS DID YOU USE LAST MONTH?
>
>
> I should note that California alots only 2 therms a day for baseline costs
> of about $1.22 per therm (plus 5 cents per therm PPP Surcharge); so
> apparently I'm consuming double the natural gas energy California allows
> (regardless of home size or number of people) for base rates.
>
> The over-baseline charges are $1.37 per therm plus that same 5 cents per
> therm additional charge for poor people (i.e., the California Gas PPP
> Surcharge).
>
> Does ANYONE actually use just 2 therms per day for their gas furnace and
> hot-water heater for two people living in a small 1,500 sqft house?

I use about 5-7 a month for two people in a small house during the
summer, but that includes a stove and dryer as well. I think about 90 a
month for a cold winter month, and this is in a 1948 house that is
pretty much uninsulated except for the attic floor.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

== 9 of 14 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 6:22 pm
From: "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 02:08:39 GMT, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
wrote:

> On Sat, 16 Feb 2008 23:53:17 GMT, Tony Hwang wrote:
>> What is therm? Here in Alberta measurement is by the Giga Joule.
>
> Hi Tony Hwang in Australia,

Oooooops. Canada.

I was thinking Australia when you said Alberta.

Dunno why ... but the math is the same in Albertian that I provided.

== 10 of 14 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 8:03 pm
From: Rick Blaine

Tony Hwang <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote:

>What is therm?

Approximately 105 megajoules. It's a common billing unit in the US.

== 11 of 14 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 8:05 pm
From: Rick Blaine

"pepita@prodigy.net" <scrapquilter@gmail.com> wrote:

>My bill states 27 days in the last billing period. 158ccf is the
>amount of natural gas that I am being billed for. Is that the same
>unit you are referencing?

Roughly, yes. Your local utility can adjust the ratio though.

== 12 of 14 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 8:24 pm
From: Pat

FWIW, out gas bill comes with averages so you can compare. For
November, their average was just under 30 ccf with an average temp of
44 F

== 13 of 14 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 9:17 pm
From: gheston@hiwaay.net (Gary Heston)

In article <fp81vi$gnn$2@news.datemas.de>, Marsha <mas@bex.net> wrote:
>Gary Heston wrote:
[ ... ]
>> Since we just went through water usage, let me preempt the next inquiries:
[ ... ]
>> Garbage pickup $29.00
[ ... ]

>> As above, that's for two houses, total of about 1900 square feet, one
>> occupant.

>Is your garbage pickup through city workers or a private entity? It
>seems a lot of people on this group pay more for garbage pickup than we
>do, which is $30.00 every 3 months, unlimited. We are in a suburb. The
>nearest city used to get free pickup, but they now have to pay an extra
>$10.00/month.

My pickup is by the city; with two houses, I pay two fees for one person.
It's a flat rate per address, and I generate so little that I put out
perhaps one can a month. Someone who puts out one every month pays the
same as I do. No way around it, though.

Gary

--
Gary Heston gheston@hiwaay.net

http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/

We live in amazing times, when one person can invent both the Internet
and global warming, then get awarded a "peace prize".

== 14 of 14 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 10:11 pm
From: "RVer Don"

2,200 sf house in central California. Two people. Gas water heater,
electric range and clothes dryer. Only a few days in the low thirities.
Mostly high thirities to low forties. Bills ending middle of the month.
November .6 therms per day, December 2.0, January 3.2, February 3.1.
Average monthly usage for 2007 was 1.04 therms per day.

Don in Tracy, Calif.

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:yvItj.756$pl4.153@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net...
> I'm curious how I compare with others in my natural gas usage.
>
> I used 120 therms in the past 30 days (about 4 therms per day).
> HOW MANY THERMS DID YOU USE LAST MONTH?
>
> I do realize that there are _many_ factors that affect usage but there is
> only one number for your final usage. That's what I'd like to compare.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Walmart Nothern VA - Wii
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/cadc8cd3f533d8a1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 4:51 pm
From: "Stormin Mormon"

Go back and ask eight more employees there. Come here, and let us know what
they said.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus

www.lds.org
.

"Mike" <yard22192@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:69681128-84bc-4f23-b7eb-19263820e9e6@p43g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
Anyone know if Walmart will sell Wii? I went to the Walmart in
Woodbridge by Potomac Mills Mall and 4 Walmart employees said they
don't know. Plus they won't credit my son's Wii console gift card.
Thanks
Mike

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Que: Grits Instant or Quick?
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/74702e56ec43a313?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 5:05 pm
From: Derald

">=Martin=<" <mailbox24@gmail.com> wrote:

>This is a Southern question. I make Quaker Instant grits in the
>microwave. What is the difference in 'instant' and 'quick' grits? Do
>they cook the same way?

"Old fashioned" grits cooks in approximately 45 minutes and
requires frequent stirring; "quick" grits cooks in 5 minutes (after
coming to a slow boil) and requires frequent stirring; "instant" grits
is not really grits and does not cook but gets mushy within about a
minute's exposure to water.
Except for the Quaker product, most "quick" and/or "instant" grits
are not grits but are simply ground dried corn, basically, polenta.
"Real" grits is made from hominy and must indicate that fact on the
package.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 7:51 pm
From: hchickpea@hotmail.com

On Sat, 16 Feb 2008 20:05:40 -0500, Derald <derald@invalid.net> wrote:

>">=Martin=<" <mailbox24@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>This is a Southern question. I make Quaker Instant grits in the
>>microwave. What is the difference in 'instant' and 'quick' grits? Do
>>they cook the same way?
>
> "Old fashioned" grits cooks in approximately 45 minutes and
>requires frequent stirring; "quick" grits cooks in 5 minutes (after
>coming to a slow boil) and requires frequent stirring; "instant" grits
>is not really grits and does not cook but gets mushy within about a
>minute's exposure to water.
> Except for the Quaker product, most "quick" and/or "instant" grits
>are not grits but are simply ground dried corn, basically, polenta.
>"Real" grits is made from hominy and must indicate that fact on the
>package.

Wayall, 'cept real southerners make real grits, and after asking
around what the best grits are, we've found that almost all southern
cooks we asked go for Jim Dandy instant grits. We concur that they
make the grade.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Quick basic advice on a dripping gas 40-gal hot-water heater
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/e565eaf98e0e70b6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 5:06 pm
From: "Stormin Mormon"

Replace the thing, already.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus

www.lds.org
.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 9:02 pm
From: "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"

On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 15:10:03 -0800 (PST), hallerb@aol.com wrote:
> add be prepared to replace drain valve, which may not shut or drip
> when closed, espically the plastic ones. some valves will clog replace
> tank drain valve with a ball valve at new tank install time

Thank you for all the advice!
You've given us the courage to tackle this ourselves!
Bill and I read *every* post here!

To replace our dripping 40-gallon (65-gallon FHR) home water heater, we
bought the best water heater I could find.

This turned out to be the $450 Sears #33154 (actually manufactured by AO
Smith) 97-gallon First Hour Rating (FHR) and 0.63 Energy Factor (EF),
nominally with a 50-gallon tank and coming with a (rather useless) 12-year
warranty on parts and a slightly useful 1-year warranty on labor.

We're going to do the job tomorrow so I'm reading *everything* I can find
on the net on how to properly remove and install a natural gas home hot
water heater. I'll summarize the steps we plan on taking in a subsequent
posting.

So far, Bill bought $686.47 in parts while I write up every step for him
before we do the work tomorrow, together. He will return any unused parts,
but here is what he bought from Sears today to get ready for the job.

$449.00 Sears #33154 50-gallon 12/1 year hot water heater 97FHR .63EF
$ 2.19 1-ounce TFE paste (for the gas pipe fittings)
$ 9.59 3/4-inch quarter-turn water valve (replaces plastic drain valve)
$ 8.99 3/4-inch CSA gas ball valve (for the gas line)
$ 15.99 3/4-inch swing check valve (for additional heat-loss protection)
$ 7.99 18" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe (x2)
$ 7.49 15" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe (x2)
$ 5.99 12" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe (x2)
$ 12.99 18" 3/4-inch stainless-steel water-heater connector pipe (x2)
$ 10.99 12" 3/4-inch stainless-steel water-heater connector pipe (x2)
$ 8.99 3/4-inch by 3/4-inch Dialectric Union B (x4)
$ 3.59 1.5-inch long 3/4-inch male:male brass pipe nipples (x4)
$ 2.39 1.0-inch long 3/4-inch male:male brass pipe nipples (x3)
$ 52.32 sales tax at 8.25%
--------
$686.47 total

The reason for *both* the copper flex pipe and stainless steel pipe is
because the stainless steel might allow us to not need the dialectric
unions which are huge. Remember, the new tank is five inches taller than
the old tank so we are going to have problems with the plumbing most likely
so having fewer nipples and dialectric unions will shorten the lines a bit.

Do we really need to isolate the copper from the brass from the steel?
We assume so.

Also, we bought the extra one-way check valve even though the water heater
apparently comes with heat-loss protectors and we can s-kink the flex lines
(not the steel lines, just the copper lines).

Do you think the one-way hot-water-outlet check valve will work to slow
heat loss?

Note we didn't buy the insulating blanket for the water heater, nor the
insulation for the hot-water pipes yet. We figured we could do that later.

Our biggest question is whether we really needed the dialectric unions.
Since they were female:female, that necessitated brass nipples on each
side, further lengthening the lines which we need to shorten.

What do you think?
Donna & Bill

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 9:07 pm
From: "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"

On Sat, 16 Feb 2008 22:02:31 -0700, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
wrote:
> We're going to do the job tomorrow so I'm reading *everything* I can find
> on the net on how to properly remove and install a natural gas home hot
> water heater. I'll summarize the steps we plan on taking in a subsequent
> posting.

Here are the steps I wrote up for Bill.
I post this to you *before* we tackle the job tomorrow morning.
Did we miss anything important that you have told us to do?
Is anything out of order that you suggested?
Can we skip any of the steps outlined below?
Your timely advice will help us and anyone following this thread!
Thanks,
Donna

HOT-WATER-HEATER REMOVAL:

While the old dripping hot-water heater is still firmly in place ...
- Shut natural gas at the main gas meter
- Shut natural gas at the local hot-water heater
- Ensure the pilot light is out before separating any gas plumbing lines
- Shut the household cold water at the main water valve
- Shut the cold-water inlet to the hot-water heater
- Open all hot-water faucets in the house to drain off pressure
- Wait two hours, if possible, to allow the hot water in the tank to cool
- Connect a garden hose to the water heater drain valve
- Open drain valve and drain hot water where it will not damage anything
- Disconnect garden hose and close drain valve when done (40 or 50 gallons)
- Unbolt earthquake straps (if any)
- Unscrew the sheet-metal screw holding the vent pipe to the draft hood
- Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood
- Unscrew the cold-water inlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the hot-water outlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the natural gas inlet to the water-heater thermostat
- Cap the newly disconnected natural gas line to prevent contamination
- Unscrew sheet-metal screws holding gas-flue hat onto the vent pipe
- Separate the vent pipe from the gas-flue hat
- Remove old heater off the elevated base
- Remove all water plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve
- Remove all gas plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve

HOT-WATER-HEATER REPLACEMENT:

While the new hot-water heater is sitting on the garage floor ...
- Remove the plastic drain valve & replace with a brass ball valve
- Install the new temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve
- Install the relief valve relief pipe
- Always use two wrenches when screwing and unscrewing pipe fittings!
MOUNT THE TANK & POSITION THE VENT AND HOOD:
- Mount and level the new hot water heater on the elevated base
- Ensure at least six inches of clear space all around the new heater
- Hacksaw the old gas vent so that it fits the new larger water heater
- Ensure the gas vent aligns with the center of the hot-water heater
- Insert legs of the draft hood into the holes in the top of the heater
- Drill a 1/8 inch hole into the draft hood and 3-inch vent pipe
- Screw in at least 1 sheet-metal screw from the vent hood to the vent pipe
ATTACH THE COLD WATER INLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Insert the blue heat-trap fitting (arrow down) into the tank cold-water
inlet
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Screw the cold-water inlet male:male nipple into the top of the tank
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-inlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized cold-water inlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new ball-valve shutoff onto this vertical cold-water inlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the cold-water inlet brass nipples
ATTACH THE HOT WATER OUTLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Insert the red heat-trap fitting (arrow up) into the tank hot-water
outlet
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-outlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new one-way check-valve onto this vertical hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the hot-water inlet brass nipples
- Bend the copper flex pipe into an S shape to further inhibit heat loss
TURN ON THE WATER SUPPLY:
- Open all the hot-water faucets in the house to bleed out air
- Open the main cold-water input to the house
- Open the new ball-valve cold-water input to the hot-water heater
- Check for leaks as the tank fills
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve
ATTACH THE NATURAL GAS INLET:
- Always connect the natural gas line as the very last step in this process
- Set the thermostat to the off position
- Coat male natural gas line threads with stick pipe dope (never Teflon
tape)
- Ensure the last two threads are not covered with any pipe dope
- Connect the new natural gas flex pipe with shutoff valve to the
thermostat
- Turn on natural gas at the main switch
- Turn on natural gas at the local inlet to the water heater
- Test for leaks by toothbrushing a solution of dish detergent and water
- Read and carefully follow the manufacturer's lighting instructions
INSULATION:
- Wrap additional insulation around your hot-water heater, if desired
- Wrap insulation around your hot-water outlet pipe, if desired
DISPOSAL:
- Call the local garbage or recycling to haul away the old water heater
YEARLY MAINTENANCE:
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve
- Shut the natural gas flow valve to your water heater
- Close the cold-water intake at the top of the water heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet on any level above the water heater
- Connect a garden hose to your hot water heater drain valve
- Open water heater drain valve & empty where hot water won't damage things
- Shut the drain valve when that water runs clear (approx 10 gallons)
- Remove and inspect sacrificial anode (replace if corroded badly)
- Leave the hot water faucet(s) open
- Open the cold-water valve intake to the water heater
- Run hot-water faucets for at least 10 second (or until sputtering stops)
- Turn the natural gas back on and ensure flame ignites in the burner

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Driver
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/f899b560aa190a67?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 6:51 pm
From: "Dave"

"Bob F" <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:662dnQkgr5_CmCjanZ2dnUVZ_jGdnZ2d@comcast.com...
>
> "Jeff" <jeff@spam_me_not.com> wrote in message
> news:13r94ohm155803b@corp.supernews.com...
>> jenkins419@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Were would I find drivers for the emachine modem 56K ITU v.92-ready
>>> Fax/Modem, Model T2742, check wedsite unable to get the drivers, does
>>> anyone have them out there?
>>>
>>
>> Like Duh,
>>
>> Google: T2742 modem driver
>>
>> Yield this as the first hit:
>>
>>
>> http://www.emachines.com/support/product_support.html?cat=Desktops&subcat=T-Series&model=T3624
>
> Cheater.

Cheated, and still lost. How pathetic. Google was a good idea, but there
is nothing in the result that seems to suggest that there is a solution for
the OP. The downloads are for a different model computer. Might work,
might totally fuck up his system to the point where he can't even access
safe mode to do a rollback. It's generally not a good idea to try some
random driver hoping that it will work OK. -Dave

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Printable Grocery Coupons - Mommy Savers
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/ef2a5ceda0f935cd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 8:18 pm
From: xikom01@yahoo.com.tw

Are Mommies shopping smarter with online coupons and printable grocery
coupons?

Some of us search endlessly for bargains online and easy ways to save
money while some of us are content with just a small discount or deal.

Whether we are shopping online for clothes, auto parts, gifts,
electronics, or computers, We all share one thing in common, we all
want a great bargain, or some sort of reasonable discount.

We all know that discount coupons are great ways to save money, and IM
sure all the mommies out there can agree with me.

10 years ago many of us would wait for those Sunday newspapers,
catalogs or magazines in order to clip some discount coupons, I call
them coupon mommy savers because 90% of consumers who use coupons are
mommies. (lol)

Today mommies are shopping smarter, with the Internet the old days of
clipping coupons are soon fading away, they are noticing that there
are great coupon savings online.

There are also great online coupon sites that spend their entire days
searching for printable grocery coupons and online coupon codes, they
provide consumers with a list of free discount coupons that are very
much appreciated, however you must take precautions.

Here are some online coupon shopping safety tips for beginners:

1) Stay away from online coupon sites that ask you for your personal
information in order for you to print your discount coupon , You will
get 100s of spam emails for every discount

http://www.dontplayplay.com/html/Bothsexes/20061002/46920.html

==============================================================================
TOPIC: wholesale all laptops,mobile phone http://www.fashion-sky.com
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/3a60367f2fc62b77?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 8:38 pm
From: fashion-sky.002@hotmail.com

NOKIA N95 $250
NOKIA N93 $190
NOKIA N92 $160
NOKIA N91 $170
NOKIA N90 $180
Nokia N70 $165
NOKIA N73 $180
NOKIA 7600 (UNLOCK) $150
Nokia 8800 Sirocco Gold Edtion -$250
Nokia 8800 Sirocco Black$250
Apple Iphone $250
LG prada $160
We wholesale all laptops
Sony VGN-CR13/B 380$
Sony VGN-CR13/L 350$
Sony VGN-CR15/B 320$
Sony VGN-CR13/P 480$
Sony VGN-C21CH 450$
Sony VGN-SZ44CN 580$
Sony VGN-C22CH/W 620$
Sony VGN-N17C 480$
Sony VGN-CR13/W 580$
Sony VGN-FZ15 560$
Apple MacBook 580$
Apple MacBook Pro(MA896CH/A)680$
Apple MacBook Pro(MA896CH/A) 630$
Apple MacBook (MB063CH/A) 580$
Apple MacBook Pro(MA895CH/A) 580$
Apple MacBook(MB062CH/A) 590$
Apple MacBook(MA700CH/A) 580$
Apple MacBook(MA701CH/A) 550$
Apple MacBook Pro （MA610CH/A） 650$
Apple MacBook Pro (MA611CH/A) 680$
Apple MacBook (MA699CH/A) 580$

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TOPIC: .com Domains for $6.95 and Hosting for $3.99 per month (99.9% Uptime!)
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/aa8254e0bc9bb967?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 9:20 pm
From: fractalien

.com Domains for $6.95:
http://www.eDealDomains.com

99.9% Uptime Hosting (Windows or Linux) for $3.99 per Month
http://www.AllRightHosting.com

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TOPIC: www.cheapforwholesale.com Cheap LV AF1 25th AF1 prada timberland shoes
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/19068e6efa9a98f1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 9:46 pm
From: cheapforwholesale@yahoo.cn

(WWW.cheapforwholesale.COM)
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Saturday, February 16, 2008

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