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* Only 30k miles from tires? - 10 messages, 5 authors
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* !!!!!!!>> BREAK THROUGH - To Take Control of Your SEX Life <<!!!!!!!! - 1
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TOPIC: Only 30k miles from tires?
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/a84bf58bf2c23f50?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 8:27 am
From: me@privacy.net
>> Is 30k mile abt right for tire life now days?
>>
>> What you get?
>
>Depends, if they are the low profile "race car tires" that seem to be
>popular for some reason it may be even less.
Well these are V rated tires.... but that's what is
supposed to go on my car and what the OEM tires were
Does that info help?
== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 8:29 am
From: me@privacy.net
>Depends on the tires. If you buy cheap Korean/Chinese off-brands
>(e.g., Jupiter) that they sell for cheap at the discount stores, you
>can expect to get about 20-30K out of them. I have had much better
>performance (50-60K+) from the Michelins that I buy from Costco.
Well I'm a Costco member and that is where I got these
tires
But they are Goodrich Traction TA and are V rated
Again.... for a 2000 Mazda Protege ES compact car....
nothing special abt the car at all
== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 8:30 am
From: me@privacy.net
>so to answer your question, yes after 30k miles some tires will be
>worn out
OK.... well this may be normal then as they are in fact
V rated tires..... but on a compact car
== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 8:31 am
From: me@privacy.net
>A trick to extending tire life on a front wheel drive car
>is to not rotate the tires. On a front wheel drive car
>the front tires take most of the wear. Go ahead and let
>them wear. Then replace them. But keep the rear tires.
What abt buying NON directional tires and just rotating
them all front to back and side to side?
== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 8:48 am
From: George
me@privacy.net wrote:
>>> Is 30k mile abt right for tire life now days?
>>>
>>> What you get?
>> Depends, if they are the low profile "race car tires" that seem to be
>> popular for some reason it may be even less.
>
> Well these are V rated tires.... but that's what is
> supposed to go on my car and what the OEM tires were
>
> Does that info help?
"V" is a 149 MPH speed rating which means they have really soft rubber.
I would think it is unlikely that you ever drive in that speed range?
Thats what I meant when I said "race car tires". One of the things I
look at when I buy a car is whether it has race car tires because I had
a car that did and didn't realize the issues until after I bought it.
The tires were expensive, didn't last because they were so soft and
there were no other choices because of the wheels, clearances and they
were not a common size.
== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 8:52 am
From: George
Gordon wrote:
> me@privacy.net wrote in news:3eptk3p0k2o6a5uk0s1q7k04r4edkf3lla@4ax.com:
>
>> Seems like my 2000 Mazda Protege ES just goes through
>> tires!
>>
>> I just bought 4 new tires July 2006 and 30k miles later
>> (now) they are almost worn out.
>>
>> Is 30k mile abt right for tire life now days?
>>
>> What you get?
>
> What was the rated life of the tire?? 30K may be what
> they were rated for.
>
> Had the alignment checked recently?
>
> Also check the wear pattern. Over or under inflated tires
> will wear out faster.
>
> A trick to extending tire life on a front wheel drive car
> is to not rotate the tires. On a front wheel drive car
> the front tires take most of the wear. Go ahead and let
> them wear. Then replace them. But keep the rear tires.
I don't understand the trick. I think there will be little actual
difference in "tire consumption" compared to rotation.
== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 9:13 am
From: me@privacy.net
>"V" is a 149 MPH speed rating which means they have really soft rubber.
>I would think it is unlikely that you ever drive in that speed range?
OK
Will it be OK to downgrade to a lower rating tire to
get longer life tho?
Again... the V rating tires is what is SUPPOSED to be
on this economy car..... makes no sense to me.... but
that is what the OEM tires were... V rating
== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 9:48 am
From: Ron Peterson
On Nov 29, 10:16 am, m...@privacy.net wrote:
> Seems like my 2000 Mazda Protege ES just goes through
> tires!
> I just bought 4 new tires July 2006 and 30k miles later
> (now) they are almost worn out.
> Is 30k mile abt right for tire life now days?
> What you get?
I got 40,000 miles with my last set, I still had some wear left (I
replaced them because they were old).
There are now tread wear ratings for tires, so you can factor that
into your tire cost.
See http://www.goodyeartires.com/goodyeartireselector/ for an example
of tire information that is available. I bought my latest set of tires
to have the best all season traction.
--
Ron
== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 9:52 am
From: Logan Shaw
me@privacy.net wrote:
> Will it be OK to downgrade to a lower rating tire to
> get longer life tho?
>
> Again... the V rating tires is what is SUPPOSED to be
> on this economy car..... makes no sense to me.... but
> that is what the OEM tires were... V rating
The most important things for safety are that you make sure you get
the right size of tire (both width and height) and that you get a
sufficient load rating (which is how much weight the tire can bear).
The speed rating is only important if you want to go that fast, or if
you are a car manufacturer worried about liability. Basically, if the
car is capable of 130 mph, the tires need to be capable of that too.
I believe this is the law in some (many? all?) places.
Having said that, I don't think there's a guarantee that getting a
lower speed rating will give you a longer-lasting tire. It's true
that high-performance tires will tend to have a shorter life and a
higher speed rating, but it's entirely possible to get performance
tires with a lower speed rating and a shorter life.
My advice is to go to tirerack.com, enter the info about your car,
and see their list of compatible tires. Then learn what the size
codes (like "225/45VR17"), service description codes (like "91H"),
and UTQG codes (like "460 A A") mean, and choose a tire based on its
specs and based on the reviews. People will tell you in the review
if the tire wears out unexpectedly fast. (My car came with some
Pirelli P6 Four Seasons tires that wore out fast and developed an
annoying noise, and sure enough, many people had the same experiences
and wrote about it there.)
About specs: in the UTQG number rating (that looks like "460 A A"),
the number at the beginning indicates treadwear, and it's based on
actual tests where they drive the car around on the highway. A higher
number is better, and the number is basically sorta proportional to
the expect wear of the tire.
Finally, keep in mind expected life of the tire vs. cost of the tire.
If you can pay twice as much for a tire that is expected to last twice
as long, my advice is, don't. You have more money invested in the
tires and if something happens (flat tire, or you just sell the car),
you have more to lose. IMHO, you want the best bang for the buck,
but you also want to bias it (har har) toward lower-priced tires
a bit since tires may not be able to serve you for their entire life
for whatever reason.
- Logan
== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 10:27 am
From: Dennis
On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 11:13:46 -0600, me@privacy.net wrote:
>>"V" is a 149 MPH speed rating which means they have really soft rubber.
>>I would think it is unlikely that you ever drive in that speed range?
>
>OK
>
>Will it be OK to downgrade to a lower rating tire to
>get longer life tho?
>
>Again... the V rating tires is what is SUPPOSED to be
>on this economy car..... makes no sense to me.... but
>that is what the OEM tires were... V rating
ZOOM-ZOOM!
Unfortunately, that's the market that Mazda is targeting these days --
the posers who buy econoboxes and pretend they have race cars (present
company excluded, of course :-). Too bad, too -- I really liked my
1992 Protege.
Dennis (evil)
--
I'm a hands-on, footloose, knee-jerk head case. -George Carlin
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TOPIC: Nike Jordan Shoes: Cheap Nike,Cheap Jordan,clothing ,coat,mobile phones
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 9:37 am
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== 1 of 1 ==
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TOPIC: What's the difference?
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== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 10:01 am
From: Uncle Vic
One fine day in alt.atheism, Goomba38 <Goomba38@comcast.net> bloodied us
up with this:
> J Young wrote:
>> Can anyone tell what the difference is between being frugal and being
>> cheap? Not Webster's definition, just life in general.
>>
> Frugal is deciding what you want (be it a Geo Metro all the way to a
> BMW) but getting it for the best value. Cheap is insisting to others
> that they should only want or buy the Geo Metro.
>
There's nothing better than a BMW? Both Lexus and Infiniti are more
refined, and will leave most Beemers in the dust. Mercedes Benz offers a
lot more features in the same price range. I know people who've told me
horror stories about their Ultimate Driving Machines, which tend to spend
too much time in the shop at top dollar. I know a guy who has a K1200LT
motorcycle, it cost him $3500 for the "routine" 36,000 mile maintenance
stop. BMW is *far* from frugal, but if you make enough to afford one, I
guess you don't need to worry about frugality.
--
Uncle Vic
aa Atheist #2011
Supervisor, EAC Department of little adhesive-backed "L" shaped
chrome-plastic doo-dads to add feet to Jesus fish department.
Convicted by Earthquack.
== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 10:23 am
From: "pbamvv@worldonline.nl"
On 30 nov, 06:38, "J Young" <youngopini...@aol.com> wrote:
> Can anyone tell what the difference is between being frugal and being cheap?
> Not Webster's definition, just life in general.
>
> --
> Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
> ------->>>>>>http://www.NewsDemon.com<<<<<<------
> Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access
Apperantly you think we atheists know something you don't
Good for you!
(I see the answer was provided by Goomba38)
Peter van Velzen
November 2007
Amstelveen
The Netherlands
== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 10:28 am
From: Just A User
J Young wrote:
> Can anyone tell what the difference is between being frugal and being cheap?
> Not Webster's definition, just life in general.
>
>
>
> --
> Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
> ------->>>>>>http://www.NewsDemon.com<<<<<<------
> Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access
I personally think being cheap is needing / wanting something but not
willing to buy the said item or service even if it can be bought / had
for a frugal price.
== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 10:37 am
From: "Rod Speed"
Goomba38 <Goomba38@comcast.net> wrote:
> J Young wrote:
>> Can anyone tell what the difference is between being frugal and
>> being cheap? Not Webster's definition, just life in general.
> Frugal is deciding what you want (be it a Geo Metro all the way to a BMW) but getting it for the best value.
Its also about reducing what you want too.
> Cheap is insisting to others that they should only want or buy the Geo Metro.
Nope, what others are advised to do is a separate matter entirely.
== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 12:06 pm
From: "AllEmailDeletedImmediately"
"J Young" <youngopinions@aol.com> wrote in message
news:474fa2a2$0$26032$b9f67a60@news.newsdemon.com...
> Can anyone tell what the difference is between being frugal and being
> cheap? Not Webster's definition, just life in general.
let me give you an example:
frugal is when you use a coupon and take your wife out to a reasonably nice
restaurant for your anniversary. cheap is when you can afford to take her
above restaurant and instead make her a pbj sandwich for dinner. now, if
that pbj is really all you can afford, then that's not being cheap.
cheap is also when you insist that she and the kids shop at a second hand
store, even though you can afford better, while you head out and get an
expensive suit.
imo, cheap always involves someone else. if you choose to shop/eat/etc way
below your means, that doesn't make you cheap. you can only be cheap when
your refusal to spend legitimate money affects others negatively.
== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 1:21 pm
From: Goomba38
Rod Speed wrote:
> Goomba38 <Goomba38@comcast.net> wrote:
>> J Young wrote:
>>> Can anyone tell what the difference is between being frugal and
>>> being cheap? Not Webster's definition, just life in general.
>
>> Frugal is deciding what you want (be it a Geo Metro all the way to a BMW) but getting it for the best value.
>
> Its also about reducing what you want too.
No, I disagree. If I shop I'm helping provide economic support to
businesses and the employees who get to keep their jobs. I subscribe to
the Dolly Levy theory of helping the world.
It is not for anyone else to decide for me how I should spend my money
if it is mine to spend or save. Of course I don't want to spend more
than I need to on any item, but that doesn't mean I have to "go without"
something because YOU feel I should.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: XMAS Income
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/b2b319e47c108130?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 10:02 am
From: Cheapo Groovo
http://cheapogroovo.vox.com/library/post/extra-christmas-income.html
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Crucial Criteria for choosing equipment.
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/ee8cb2f81c0d6b16?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 12:49 pm
From: "johngood_____"
Recently I saw in a newsgroup topic about 'choosing' a new laptop computer,
I saw that somebody cut through the endless, "thats a good make or that's
not a good make" by what looked like to me as going to the heart of the
matter.
That is, by considering from their relevant web sites; what the
'specification' of specific computer chips of either of the two main makers,
AMD or Intel, the laptop computer had inside it. Then after that perhaps
other criterion can be looked at like customer service, etc, etc.
When it comes to buying a new flat screen television is there an insightful
way to give priority to one or two criterion for choosing a new set from the
massive and bewildering array of new models now on the market?
I am a novice in this area, but I have heard that there a only a very few
makers of the actual flat screens, who then go on to supply most of the
famous brands. So might that be a crucial area to consider first?
Any information around this I would be grateful for. Also I've heard that
the sound of the set is relatively uninportant, since it will be drastically
improved by feeding the sound out through and audio amplifier?
Grateful for any advice on the above and the few criteria you yourself would
consider first. Thanks
== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 12:59 pm
From: "super"
"johngood_____" <time.dream95@REMOOVEvirgin.net> wrote in message
news:RH_3j.103$jy3.24@newsfe7-win.ntli.net...
> Recently I saw in a newsgroup topic about 'choosing' a new laptop
> computer, I saw that somebody cut through the endless, "thats a good make
> or that's not a good make" by what looked like to me as going to the
> heart of the matter.
>
> That is, by considering from their relevant web sites; what the
> 'specification' of specific computer chips of either of the two main
> makers, AMD or Intel, the laptop computer had inside it. Then after that
> perhaps other criterion can be looked at like customer service, etc, etc.
>
> When it comes to buying a new flat screen television is there an
> insightful way to give priority to one or two criterion for choosing a new
> set from the massive and bewildering array of new models now on the
> market?
>
> I am a novice in this area, but I have heard that there a only a very few
> makers of the actual flat screens, who then go on to supply most of the
> famous brands. So might that be a crucial area to consider first?
>
> Any information around this I would be grateful for. Also I've heard that
> the sound of the set is relatively uninportant, since it will be
> drastically improved by feeding the sound out through and audio
> amplifier?
>
> Grateful for any advice on the above and the few criteria you yourself
> would consider first. Thanks
Go to WHSmith and browse or buy some review mags.
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 1:11 pm
From: "David"
Well my Laptop is a Fujitsu Siemens it is Ok for all but one thing games.
The graphic card is not good enough so if you want games make sure you know
what you want, by the way I think most of the low end priced laptops have
this comment made.
FS CS is poor from the couple of questions I've asked them.
My PC is an HP CS is excellent last week one evening I e-mailed them with a
question within 2 hours they e-mailed back. This lead to another e-mail to
them, a reply about 10mins later, another mail back and again 10mins to
reply. So within 3 hours my problem solved.
Next morning a personal E-mail from them asking was all ok now, if not could
they help further.
I call that good old fashioned service.
On another occasion my Updater, checks daily, got a Microsoft update, the PC
did not like it. I e-mailed HP CS and within an hour they sent me a fix.
I will be buying thier product next time.
Can I add to your question, as I await what is said about monitors, if you
are requiring them.
I want a 22" w/s, most £300 or more.
Staples have a Belinea at £129.99 I would welcome comments on this, is it as
good as others in the lower price range.
I note the cheaper ones just feature the normal connectors, but more
expensive one have a DVi as alternative. Is there anything to choose
between these inputs on a monitor having both.
Regards
David
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 30 2007 1:13 pm
From: "David"
"super" <MR@spark.com> wrote in message
news:13l0udroo1orl15@corp.supernews.com...
>
> Go to WHSmith and browse or buy some review mags.
>
Not too sure on that.
When I bought my laptop it was £399 and all stores had that price on thier
lowest one. But the mags. seemed to only mention laptops of £600/700 +, I
think they written by people with pots of money.
Regards
David
==============================================================================
TOPIC: !!!!!!!>> BREAK THROUGH - To Take Control of Your SEX Life <<!!!!!!!!
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/97366fd71a2cd95a?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
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