http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living?hl=en
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Today's topics:
* www.shopbb.com from china Wholesale Footwear, Apparel,Bag,NFL Jersey,,mobile
phones,shop.Best Service,Best Pruce,Best Items - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/9bea5814f23282ac?hl=en
* ? for landlords - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/648f8a4eebe4a886?hl=en
* Quick basic advice on a dripping gas 40-gal hot-water heater - 11 messages,
5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/e565eaf98e0e70b6?hl=en
* when does the tripling of grain prices "hit the fan"? - 4 messages, 2
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/b7ba2eeecb9059a7?hl=en
* Sewing Machines: Making A Comeback? - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/04891ec8941a20e8?hl=en
* how to make money with internet?her the answer - 2 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/94f22451aee348f9?hl=en
* cold water detergent - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/28e84033bdbeafba?hl=en
* How many therms (natural gas) do you use per day (per month)? - 1 messages,
1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/99d004d38152f87d?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: www.shopbb.com from china Wholesale Footwear, Apparel,Bag,NFL Jersey,,
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http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/9bea5814f23282ac?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: ? for landlords
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/648f8a4eebe4a886?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 9:43 am
From: barbie gee
On Mon, 18 Feb 2008, George Grapman wrote:
> barbie gee wrote:
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 18 Feb 2008, AllEmailDeletedImmediately wrote:
>>
>>> how do you vet your tenants?
>>
>> Use a standard application form for all tenants. Screen further with a
>> credit check and work verification and 2 previous landlords, done by a
>> tenant screening agency. Prospective tenant(s) pay $30 screening fee
>> upfront. Call the 2 landlords yourself, as well.
>>
> An unscrupulous landlord could take many applications and simply pocket the
> fees. I would tell the landlord that fees are part of their cost of doing
> business (would you pay a bank to run a check when you apply for a credit
> card?) or, at the very least, I would offer a separate check made out to the
> reporting.
Making out a check to the reporting company would be just fine.
Generally, though, I don't take an application or bother with a credit
check until the initial interviews with a prospective tenant who is
seriously interested in taking the apartment. They must have satisfied me
that they are gainfully employed and understand the lease terms and
building rules clearly. It's a mutual screening; if they don't like the
building rules and lease terms, they don't have to apply.
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 9:44 am
From: George Grapman
barbie gee wrote:
>
>
> On Mon, 18 Feb 2008, George Grapman wrote:
>
>> barbie gee wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, 18 Feb 2008, AllEmailDeletedImmediately wrote:
>>>
>>>> how do you vet your tenants?
>>>
>>> Use a standard application form for all tenants. Screen further with
>>> a credit check and work verification and 2 previous landlords, done
>>> by a tenant screening agency. Prospective tenant(s) pay $30
>>> screening fee upfront. Call the 2 landlords yourself, as well.
>>>
>> An unscrupulous landlord could take many applications and simply
>> pocket the fees. I would tell the landlord that fees are part of their
>> cost of doing business (would you pay a bank to run a check when you
>> apply for a credit card?) or, at the very least, I would offer a
>> separate check made out to the reporting.
>
> Making out a check to the reporting company would be just fine.
> Generally, though, I don't take an application or bother with a credit
> check until the initial interviews with a prospective tenant who is
> seriously interested in taking the apartment. They must have satisfied
> me that they are gainfully employed and understand the lease terms and
> building rules clearly. It's a mutual screening; if they don't like the
> building rules and lease terms, they don't have to apply.
>
A rental agent always walked outside with the applicant after showing
them the place so he could look at their car. No, he did not care about
the make.model or condition, he simply looked at the expiration date on
the tags.If they expired 10 months ago it could indicate a problem such
as inability to re-register because they had no insurance or too many
unpaid parking tickets.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Quick basic advice on a dripping gas 40-gal hot-water heater
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/e565eaf98e0e70b6?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 8:42 am
From: "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 09:18:04 -0800 (PST), N8N wrote:
> If you try to remove it next year, you should be able to do it
Good point. We should remove the anode every year so that it *can* be
removed when it comes time to replace it with a similarly sized one.
One thing we still need to do is attach the drainage pipe from the
Temperature & Pressure valve to near the floor in case of an overflow.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2274211119/
Is the drain pipe mandatory (can we just leave it off)?
It seems to me a drain pipe *should* be mandatory because you don't want
hot water spewing forth at eye level. However, due to configuration
changes, even with the taller tank, the old drainage tube is too long and
too close to the tank so we can't just screw the old one in. We have to
modify it somehow to make it shorter and move it away from the wood base.
QUESTION:
How many inches ABOVE the garage floor should it end?
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2030/2273228265_01c9df0f48_m.jpg
If we can end ABOVE the 18 inch wooden platform, that would be easier.
If we have to end six or so inches above the garage cement floor, that
would necessitate an elbow to get past the wooden base but it seems a
horizontal line can clog causing a safety hazard.
I googled but did not find any specs as to HOW MANY INCHES above either the
floor or better yet, the wooden platform, that a drain pipe must terminate.
Can someone recommend a solution?
Thanks
Donna
== 2 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 9:47 am
From: "James Sweet"
>
> Looking at the nicely packaged yellow gas lines, we asked EVERYONE in the
> stores if we should replace and they all (multiple stores) said nobody
> replaces the gas line. They said leave it so we don't introduce a leak.
>
> So, purely for safety reasons, we didn't replace the gas line (using the
> store logic).
>
>
You don't replace the black iron gas line, but you want to replace the
stainless flex whenever you replace the appliance.
== 3 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 9:49 am
From: "James Sweet"
>
> Given how corroded the steel pipes were (I can't believe my kids drank
> water from those pipes!), maybe we'll try to replace all our plumbing when
> the weather warms up (Bill is on the roof right now doing the shingles
> which blew off in the last storm).
>
> It seems like an easy job for the piping under the crawl space.
>
> But it seems difficult for the piping hidden in the wall.
> (Do we have to rip the walls apart?)
>
> And the pipes under the driveway to the main water meter.
> (Do we have to break open the driveway?)
>
> Is replacing the galvanized pipes with copper a do-it-yourself job Billa
> nd
> I can do together?
>
Don't forget that all that crud in the pipes was in the water to begin with,
it's gross looking, but not harmful.
Replacing the pipes is not difficult in itself, however depending on the
design and layout of the house it can be a major project to get to all the
pipes. I hate crawling around in crawl spaces, and you'll almost certainly
have to cut open some walls. If you have a full basement it will be
considerably easier.
== 4 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 8:55 am
From: "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 12:26:44 -0500, Meat Plow wrote:
> I can't believe this thread is still going after what three weeks?
Hi Meat Plow,
There are more questions now, after having done the job, than there were in
the beginning, even though I read a dozen how to's, I posted my
step-by-step guide, I read a half-dozen PDFs on specifications, etc.
It seems all the required information is not in any one place (yet).
For example, unanswered questions which remain are:
Q1: Can we terminate the drain pipe above the wooden base (easier) or must
we terminate (how many) inches above the cement floor (necessitating a
short elbowed horizontal run)?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2274211119/
Q2: Is it a code requirement to replace the incoming yellow gas lines?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273276741/
Q3: Since the old drain valve (predictably) snapped in half (causing most
of the installation problems we saw),
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273262535/
and since Sears personnel said the drain valve can not be removed, do you
really remove and replace the new drain valve with a brass one (we opted
not because the store said it was unremovable)?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273262545/
Q5: How *tight* should the earthquake straps be (the originals were loose)?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273250269/
Q6: How much space should be left between the walls and the heater?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2275029488/
Q7: Must we use a sheet-metal screw or is hand tight (it's very tight) good
enough for the vent flue?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2274085488/
Donna
== 5 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 10:10 am
From: "Edwin Pawlowski"
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message
> Looking at the nicely packaged yellow gas lines, we asked EVERYONE in the
> stores if we should replace and they all (multiple stores) said nobody
> replaces the gas line. They said leave it so we don't introduce a leak.
The problem with asking at the store is the average worker there knows very
little. Flex lines used to be against code in some places, then there were
required for earthquake prone locations. A call to the gas inspector will
clarify what you need. Water heaters are better than dryers, but years of
constant flex and vibration can cause cracks in the joiunts of flex lines.
>
== 6 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 10:12 am
From: "Edwin Pawlowski"
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message
>
> KEY QUESTION: Would a plumber have done it differently? How?
>
Plumber would have used some copper fittings and soldered the joints. He
can get exactly what is needed that way.
== 7 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 10:19 am
From: "Edwin Pawlowski"
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message
>
> It seems like an easy job for the piping under the crawl space.
>
> But it seems difficult for the piping hidden in the wall.
> (Do we have to rip the walls apart?)
>
> And the pipes under the driveway to the main water meter.
> (Do we have to break open the driveway?)
>
> Is replacing the galvanized pipes with copper a do-it-yourself job Billa
> nd
> I can do together?
>
> Donna
The problem with copper is getting it trough wall. Pex, OTOH, is much
easier to get through and with the proper tools, easier to work with.
There are ways of getting under the driveway, but you'd have to either rent
the equipment or call a plumber for that portion. Check what was used for
the main. Many years ago (mostly in the 1940's) lead pipe was common.
== 8 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 10:55 am
From: N8N
On Feb 18, 11:55 am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
<donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 12:26:44 -0500, Meat Plow wrote:
> > I can't believe this thread is still going after what three weeks?
>
> Hi Meat Plow,
>
> There are more questions now, after having done the job, than there were in
> the beginning, even though I read a dozen how to's, I posted my
> step-by-step guide, I read a half-dozen PDFs on specifications, etc.
>
> It seems all the required information is not in any one place (yet).
>
> For example, unanswered questions which remain are:
>
> Q1: Can we terminate the drain pipe above the wooden base (easier) or must
> we terminate (how many) inches above the cement floor (necessitating a
> short elbowed horizontal run)?http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2274211119/
I think it needs to be *at least* 6 inches above the floor, you don't
want it to be too high though in case you are in the room when it goes
off. I assume you have a floor drain in this room?
>
> Q2: Is it a code requirement to replace the incoming yellow gas lines?http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273276741/
I believe every WH manufacturer recommends replacing the flex line if
the heater is replaced (that is if a flex line is used.)
> Q3: Since the old drain valve (predictably) snapped in half (causing most
> of the installation problems we saw),http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273262535/
> and since Sears personnel said the drain valve can not be removed, do you
> really remove and replace the new drain valve with a brass one (we opted
> not because the store said it was unremovable)?http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273262545/
I would. Can you at least look and see if the valve looks like it is
a standard 3/4" pipe thread? If so I'd replace it. Like I mentioned
earlier, I just used a 3/4" dielectric nipple, a 3/4" NPT ball valve,
a 3/4" male NPT to male garden hose adapter, and a brass garden hose
cap to make my own drain valves (I actually have three water heaters
on my property, two in the house and one in the garage...)
I have yet to see a drain valve for a water heater that didn't screw
into the tank with a 3/4" pipe thread. I imagine the Sears rep just
told you it wasn't replaceable to keep you from messing with it.
> Q5: How *tight* should the earthquake straps be (the originals were loose)?http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273250269/
don't know, they apparently aren't required anywhere I've lived.
>
> Q6: How much space should be left between the walls and the heater?http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2275029488/
Your installation instructions should have that info.
> Q7: Must we use a sheet-metal screw or is hand tight (it's very tight) good
> enough for the vent flue?http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2274085488/
I'd screw it together, at least two screws per joint. Before you do
that though, check with a match to make sure it's drafting properly -
light a match and hold it in the gap between the top of the water
heater and the flue vent while the heater is burning. The flame
should go straight up or slightly in towards the center of the vent -
NEVER away from the center of the vent. If it does it is backdrafting
and whatever condition is causing that needs to be corrected.
good luck
nate
== 9 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 11:40 am
From: "Stormin Mormon"
I'd guess if you remove and inspect annually, that the threads don't lock
up.
Why did you want to remove the anode of the old heater? Just curious?
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:Hjhuj.8178$5K1.598@newssvr12.news.prodigy.net...
> I just replaced the anodes ... on two ancient (80's) water heaters
2. Even Superman couldn't would have a tough time removing mine ...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2033/2274085498_52c3b7d618.jpg?v=0
Can anyone really expect to remove the anode when it needs inspection?
Why don't they provide TWO HOLES so you can add a second anode when needed?
== 10 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 11:42 am
From: "Stormin Mormon"
I've seen flex line for gas, and flex braided for water. Not sure it's
legal. But it sure is a lot easier than making the correct shapes of rigid
pipe nipples.
Yes, that galvanized pip should be replaced.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
"Edwin Pawlowski" <esp@snet.net> wrote in message
news:%vhuj.8191$5K1.1450@newssvr12.news.prodigy.net...
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message
>
> Let's learn from this half-day job.
> Would this hot water heater R&R pass your inspection?
> Why or why not?
>
> Donna & Bill
I appears that you re-used the flex gas line. That should be replaced with
any new installation and would be a code violation in most, if not all,
places.
From the photo, it looks as though you used on SS line and one copper line.
If so, that is a sure sign of a hack job. Meantime, start thinking about
replacing all of that galvanized pip with either copper or pex.
== 11 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 11:03 am
From: "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 10:55:41 -0800 (PST), N8N wrote:
> I think it needs to be *at least* 6 inches above the floor, you don't
> want it to be too high though in case you are in the room when it goes
> off. I assume you have a floor drain in this room?
Hi Nate,
It's a garage that drains down the driveway.
This reference also says "at least" six inches off the floor.
http://www.high-performance-hvac.com/heating/hot-water-heaters/hot-water-heater-maintenance-tips.html
This one says "within" six inches of the floor:
http://www.friendlyplumber.com/plumbing101/hot_water_heater.html
I'm going to tell Bill to decide to put it at the 18 inch mark above the
elevated step; otherwise it would need a horizontal length which would be
bad.
Thanks,
Donna
==============================================================================
TOPIC: when does the tripling of grain prices "hit the fan"?
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/b7ba2eeecb9059a7?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 9:58 am
From: larry
catalpa wrote:
> "rick++" <rick303@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:9eea2763-200d-4e2b-81e6-1ebb50558a37@e60g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>
>>Wheat and corn prices have quadrupled in the past two years
>>due to ethanol and international grain demand.
>>I read a sad Denver news story about hobby horse owners
>>having to put down their animals because monthly feed
>>costs have trebled. They could board a horse at $500 a
>>month but not $1500.
>>I havent seen this passed through bakeries like the 1979-1980
>>jump, but I guess its coming.
>
>
> Your data is wrong. Corn had doubled going from $2.50 to $5.00 and wheat has
> more than tripled going from $3.10 to $10.50. The higher prices will cause
> record levels of planting in 2008.
>
>
Corn prices are now dropping, gumint subsidies for the
conversion plants skewed the real cost of the new fuel.
Ironically, transportation (fuel) costs from field to plant
to user have shuttered some plants.
Localized solar (direct heat/voltaic/bio growth/wind)
storage and use (thermal mass/chemical/biomass) are much
more efficient than centralized energy. But the
government/politics/money is the beneficiary and saviour of
centralized.
-- larry / dallas
== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 11:23 am
From: "Rod Speed"
larry <foo@foobar.com> wrote
> Don Klipstein wrote
>> Don Klipstein wrote
>>> Wheat recently hit a high of $10.93 per bushel for March delivery:
>>> http://biz.yahoo.com/ap/080208/usda_wheat_commodities_wrap.html?.v=1
>>> A bushel of weight is 60 pounds of wheat.
>>> http://www.cyberspaceag.com/kansascrops/whatsinabushel.htm
>>> So wheat costs about 18 cents per pound. The wheat in a $2-plus 22-ounce loaf of bread costs about 25 cents at the
>>> latest high prices of wheat.
>> Make that less than 25 cents - bread is roughly half water, much of it added.
> Using/confusing food stock for fuel is never a good idea.
Wrong. Its an excellent way of using fast food cooking oil etc.
> The history of the Easter Islands is a good example.
Nope, we arent a tiny island.
> You don't cut down all the trees, when your existence depends on them.
Our existence doesnt depend on anything like that.
There isnt even a shortage of grain.
> There is a similar Cree Indian saying.
Pity the world moved on just a tad since their time.
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 11:24 am
From: "Rod Speed"
catalpa <catalpa@entertab.org> wrote
> rick++ <rick303@hotmail.com> wrote
>> Wheat and corn prices have quadrupled in the past two years
>> due to ethanol and international grain demand.
>> I read a sad Denver news story about hobby horse owners
>> having to put down their animals because monthly feed
>> costs have trebled. They could board a horse at $500 a
>> month but not $1500.
>> I havent seen this passed through bakeries like the 1979-1980
>> jump, but I guess its coming.
> Your data is wrong. Corn had doubled going from $2.50 to $5.00 and wheat has more than tripled going from $3.10 to
> $10.50.
And much of the increase has been due to drought, not ethanol production.
> The higher prices will cause record levels of planting in 2008.
And the weather will determine the yield, as always.
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 11:27 am
From: "Rod Speed"
larry <foo@foobar.com> wrote:
> catalpa wrote:
>
>> "rick++" <rick303@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:9eea2763-200d-4e2b-81e6-1ebb50558a37@e60g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>> Wheat and corn prices have quadrupled in the past two years
>>> due to ethanol and international grain demand.
>>> I read a sad Denver news story about hobby horse owners
>>> having to put down their animals because monthly feed
>>> costs have trebled. They could board a horse at $500 a
>>> month but not $1500.
>>> I havent seen this passed through bakeries like the 1979-1980
>>> jump, but I guess its coming.
>>
>>
>> Your data is wrong. Corn had doubled going from $2.50 to $5.00 and
>> wheat has more than tripled going from $3.10 to $10.50. The higher
>> prices will cause record levels of planting in 2008.
>>
>>
> Corn prices are now dropping, gumint subsidies for the
> conversion plants skewed the real cost of the new fuel.
> Ironically, transportation (fuel) costs from field to plant
> to user have shuttered some plants.
> Localized solar (direct heat/voltaic/bio growth/wind)
> storage and use (thermal mass/chemical/biomass) are much more efficient than centralized energy.
But arent generally much good as a transport fuel.
> But the government/politics/money is the beneficiary and saviour of centralized.
Its a hell of a lot more viable than localised for electricity etc.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sewing Machines: Making A Comeback?
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/04891ec8941a20e8?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 10:13 am
From: Cindy Hamilton
On Feb 16, 6:50 am, Al Bundy <MSfort...@mcpmail.com> wrote:
> If your time is worth anything, sewing clothes is too big a waste of
> it.
> The big savings is in fixing and altering clothes, which can be done
> quickly and with a low end machine
Only my time between 8 and 5 Monday through Friday has a dollar value.
If I spend Saturday making clothes, the time can't be considered
wasted.
Cindy Hamilton
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 11:31 am
From: Anthony Matonak
Cindy Hamilton wrote:
> Only my time between 8 and 5 Monday through Friday has a dollar value.
> If I spend Saturday making clothes, the time can't be considered
> wasted.
Your time is worth whatever someone will pay you for it. Just because
you aren't working Saturday for money doesn't mean you can't. Lots
of folks work two or more jobs. The time could also be spent improving
your job skills or advancing your education which could be turned into
increasing your wages.
Anthony
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 11:47 am
From: hchickpea@hotmail.com
On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 11:31:33 -0800, Anthony Matonak
<anthonym40@nothing.like.socal.rr.com> wrote:
>Cindy Hamilton wrote:
>> Only my time between 8 and 5 Monday through Friday has a dollar value.
>> If I spend Saturday making clothes, the time can't be considered
>> wasted.
>
>Your time is worth whatever someone will pay you for it. Just because
>you aren't working Saturday for money doesn't mean you can't. Lots
>of folks work two or more jobs. The time could also be spent improving
>your job skills or advancing your education which could be turned into
>increasing your wages.
>
>Anthony
Think of all that time wasted on vacations, going out to eat,
sleeping, and other non-productive activities. :-)
==============================================================================
TOPIC: how to make money with internet?her the answer
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/94f22451aee348f9?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 11:01 am
From: jaldou
http://glycoblug.webs.com/makemoneywithadsense.htm
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 11:01 am
From: jaldou
http://glycoblug.webs.com/makemoneywithadsense.htm
==============================================================================
TOPIC: cold water detergent
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/28e84033bdbeafba?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 11:30 am
From: "Rod Speed"
Evelyn C. Leeper <eleeper@optonline.net> wrote:
> BillGill wrote:
>> Marsha wrote:
>>> Anyone have a recommendation?
>>>
>>> Marsha/Ohio
>>>
>> I just use whatever detergent I buy. Usually something with no
>> perfumes.
>
> Same here. It seems to me that most tests of detergents haven't shown
> that you need a special one for cold water.
Depends on what you wash. I have hordes of dark blue T shirts, I dont wear
anything else, and they do show the effect of less than perfect solubility in
cold water in some washing machines. You get a sort of scum thats very
visible on just the T shirts and nothing else that you can wipe off with your
fingers when you hand the T shirts on the line but its better not to have to.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: How many therms (natural gas) do you use per day (per month)?
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/99d004d38152f87d?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 18 2008 11:39 am
From: Anthony Matonak
Bill Ghrist wrote:
> Anthony Matonak wrote:
>> I'm only one person but I average about 5 therms a month.
>> In the winter it's slightly more.
>
> Last year we used a total of 71.5 MCF (734 therms at 10.27 therm/MCF).
> That's an average of 61.2 therms/month. Highest monthly usage was 17.4
> MCF (178.7 therms) for 1/23/2007~2/22/2007 for which the average
> temperature was 22 deg. F. Most recent monthly usage (33 days:
> 12/21/2007~1/24/2008) was 13.3 MCF (136.6 therms) with an average
> temperature of 32 deg. F. In the summer months the usage was 1.2 MCF
> (12.3 therms) per month.
I live in Los Angeles, California and I can't recall the last time I
needed to fire up the heater. This winter has been fairly warm with
an average of around 60F. I'm hardly home enough to cook even if I
did have the inclination and I don't have any teenagers that take
incredibly long showers. This probably explains the low gas use. :)
This just shows how useless it is to ask the whole world how much
gas they use. Someone in Fargo is going to need a little more heating
than someone in Key West. :)
Anthony
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