Monday, August 16, 2010

misc.consumers.frugal-living - 25 new messages in 6 topics - digest

misc.consumers.frugal-living
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living?hl=en

misc.consumers.frugal-living@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Best solder free electrical connection - 16 messages, 15 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/t/11e5e6461418f740?hl=en
* Is it worth it? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/t/9a6902a43392b7ce?hl=en
* replacement car tires - 5 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/t/f3c01c800d47b4a2?hl=en
* ★Cheap genuine Nike/adidas/converse shoes and A++ quality CK underwear,ray-
ban rb sunglasse wholesale/Retail/Droshipper Freeshipping - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/t/1f5851921f7286f4?hl=en
* Substitute for cinder blocks in making temporary bookshelves? - 1 messages,
1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/t/92981ff9ab48c4ff?hl=en
* Straight Talk Prepaid: Unsolicited texts from TWC - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/t/24e5e022bbb4e742?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Best solder free electrical connection
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/t/11e5e6461418f740?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 11:17 am
From: Rich Webb


On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, "john hamilton"
<bluestar95@mail.invalid> wrote:

>I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>upwards giving some clearence).
>
>http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
>My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
>connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
>Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
>If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>gratefull. Thanks.

What Ralph said. Also, if you can get some, apply a dab of rosin flux
paste to the joint before you heat it. That helps the solder to "wet"
the surfaces and flow into the joint better.

And ensure that you have something keeping the battery holder and the
wire in place. I'd go so far as to put batteries in the thing so that it
could be clamped into a soft-jawed vice and use one of those "third
hand" thingies to hold the wire securely. Trying to keep the battery
holder in place with your palm, the wire under your elbow, with the
soldering iron in one hand and the solder in the other isn't likely to
result in a satisfactory soldering job. Not that *I've* ever done that,
of course <cough cough>

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA


== 2 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 11:31 am
From: Owain


On Aug 16, 7:17 pm, Rich Webb wrote:
> And ensure that you have something keeping the battery holder and the
> wire in place. I'd go so far as to put batteries in the thing so that it
> could be clamped into a soft-jawed vice and use one of those "third
> hand" thingies to hold the wire securely. Trying to keep the battery
> holder in place with your palm, the wire under your elbow, with the
> soldering iron in one hand and the solder in the other isn't likely to
> result in a satisfactory soldering job. Not that *I've* ever done that,
> of course <cough cough>

I've used one hand for the Thing, one hand for the iron, and held the
solder in my mouth before now ...

Fumes can get a bit eye-stingy though.

Big wodges of blu-tack can also be handy.

Owain

== 3 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 11:35 am
From: andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew Gabriel)


In article <i4btbg$m7c$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"john hamilton" <bluestar95@mail.invalid> writes:
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.

If you say which town/country you live in, someone here might
volunteer to solder it for you. If you have an electronics repair
shop near which does the work on the premises, they would probably
do it.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]


== 4 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 11:37 am
From: jeff_wisnia


john hamilton wrote:
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
>
>


While I agree with previous posters that soldering shouldn't be a big
problem, if you really don't want to try it yourself you should be able
to find someone else who will.

Or, go for your "twist through the holes" approach and use a drop of
electrically conductive epoxy on the joint:

http://www.pemro.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=LOC-1119

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.


== 5 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 11:45 am
From: The Natural Philosopher


jeff_wisnia wrote:
> john hamilton wrote:
>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
>> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>> anything to stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small
>> hole will bend upwards giving some clearence).
>>
>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>
>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
>> in the connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop
>> it unwinding. Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>
>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>
>
>
> While I agree with previous posters that soldering shouldn't be a big
> problem, if you really don't want to try it yourself you should be able
> to find someone else who will.
>
> Or, go for your "twist through the holes" approach and use a drop of
> electrically conductive epoxy on the joint:
>
> http://www.pemro.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=LOC-1119
>

..which will at best approximate to a 1k ohm resistor.:-)

> Jeff
>


== 6 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 11:56 am
From: "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"


On Aug 16, 12:43 pm, "john hamilton" <bluesta...@mail.invalid> wrote:
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull.  Thanks.

Surely you know someone who knows how to solder. You need clean bare
metal, some solder and some flux, and a hot iron. Practice a little
bit on a strip of metal the same size as the tab, that you cut from a
tin can.


== 7 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 12:05 pm
From: Djornsk


On 16/08/2010 18:43, john hamilton wrote:
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
>
>

Depending on the dimensions of the tab it may be possible to bend it
around the wire and carefully crimp it with sidecutters. Next try to
anchor the wire to the battery holder a short distance along the wire
from the tab to prevent it fracturing due to movement or vibration.
You could then use your varnish (or a glue gun) to coat the connection
to offer some protection from oxidation.
This is not as good as a soldered joint done properly, but would
probably be better than a soldered joint done badly.

j


== 8 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 12:25 pm
From: "tm"

"john hamilton" <bluestar95@mail.invalid> wrote in message
news:i4btbg$m7c$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in
> the connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
> unwinding. Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
>

Why don't you try to learn to solder? Get some copper wire and practice
making connections. Ten or so should get you going. Not only will you
achieve
your task but you will have picked up a new skill as a plus. The trick is to
place the hot iron against the joint and heat it until it will melt the
solder. Just
hold the solder on the joint until that point. To see if the iron is hot
enough, just
melt some solder on the tip. This is known as tinning the tip. Clean the tip
by
wiping it on a damp sponge.

You will only need a 15 to 25 watt iron to do this and some rosin core
tin/lead
solder. Radio shack comes to mind for both.

Have fun.

tm

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---


== 9 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 12:39 pm
From: Bob Eager


On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:

> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
> anything to stick to the tabs.

To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
solder.

--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor


== 10 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 12:45 pm
From: Fred McKenzie


In article <i4btbg$m7c$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"john hamilton" <bluestar95@mail.invalid> wrote:

> Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor.

John-

Soldering appears to me to be the best solution. Invite a friend to do
the soldering. Bend the tab up first, and solder quickly to minimize
melting the plastic underneath. The plastic should become firm again
after it cools.

What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?

Fred


== 11 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 1:15 pm
From: tony sayer


In article <i4c0iu$8he$1@news.eternal-september.org>, jeff_wisnia
<jwisniaDumpThisPart@conversent.net> scribeth thus
>john hamilton wrote:
>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>
>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>
>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>
>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>
>>
>
>
>While I agree with previous posters that soldering shouldn't be a big
>problem, if you really don't want to try it yourself you should be able
>to find someone else who will.
>

Better still have a practice on some bits of wire etc before you do this
joint and than you've learnt a new skill:))..

Do get the joint hot, and keep it hot just long enough to make it all
flow properly it seems to me that under powered irons are the biggest
cause of poor soldering...

--
Tony Sayer


== 12 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 1:27 pm
From: robgraham


On 16 Aug, 20:39, Bob Eager <rd...@spamcop.net> wrote:
> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
> > I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
> > small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
> > easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
> > anything to stick to the tabs.
>
> To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
> temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
> solder.
>
> --
> Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
>  http://www.mirrorservice.org
>
> *lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

I notice that nobody has raised the point for the OP that his problem
of previous soldering is that he is possibly using too powerful a
soldering iron - one with too big a bit. This is the most likely
cause of his problem with melting the support for the tag he is
soldering to. Haven't we all done it - and even with a temperature
controlled one and 50 years of experience I softened the mount for the
centre pin of a connector yesterday, and had to go back and apply heat
to straighten it.

John - I've had a quick scan through Ebay and suggest that
#370414838261 is a good buy (ie I've got one!) for a controlled iron
if you feel that the advise to try,try,try again is worth following.

Rob


== 13 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 1:48 pm
From: "steve robinson"


robgraham wrote:

> On 16 Aug, 20:39, Bob Eager <rd...@spamcop.net> wrote:
> > On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
> > > I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I
> > > have a small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I
> > > can see myself easily melting all the plastic around the
> > > contacts before I can get anything to stick to the tabs.
> >
> > To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can
> > get/borrow a temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower
> > temperature and use 63/37 solder.
> >
> > --
> > Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
> >  http://www.mirrorservice.org
> >
> > *lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor
>
> I notice that nobody has raised the point for the OP that his
> problem of previous soldering is that he is possibly using too
> powerful a soldering iron - one with too big a bit. This is the
> most likely cause of his problem with melting the support for the
> tag he is soldering to. Haven't we all done it - and even with a
> temperature controlled one and 50 years of experience I softened
> the mount for the centre pin of a connector yesterday, and had to
> go back and apply heat to straighten it.
>
> John - I've had a quick scan through Ebay and suggest that
> #370414838261 is a good buy (ie I've got one!) for a controlled iron
> if you feel that the advise to try,try,try again is worth following.
>
> Rob

Try lead based solder 60/40 has a lower melting point


== 14 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 2:20 pm
From: "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"


On Aug 16, 12:43 pm, "john hamilton" <bluesta...@mail.invalid> wrote:
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull.  Thanks.

Is the OP in the USA or the UK or where?????


== 15 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 2:32 pm
From: rangerssuck


On Aug 16, 1:43 pm, "john hamilton" <bluesta...@mail.invalid> wrote:
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull.  Thanks.

Take it to the local TV repair guy, and ask him to teach you how to do
it, so you'll be prepared for next time.
Alternatively, Assuming you're in the US, go towww.arrl.org (American
Radio Relay League) and find an amateur radio guy in your area (just
search by state, and with a little poking around, you'll find someone
nearby). Virtually ALL of these people know how to solder, and will
likely be extremely willing to help you learn how.


== 16 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 2:34 pm
From: "Ralph Mowery"

"Bob Eager" <rde42@spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:8ctifbFl54U2@mid.individual.net...
> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
>
>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
>> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>> anything to stick to the tabs.
>
> To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
> temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
> solder.
>

That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very hot
iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick. The
tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a low heat,
the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets hot enough to
melt the solder.
The 63/73 is the way to go, but 60/40 is just fine. Also do not move the
wires while the solder is cooling. This is one big way to mess up the
joint.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Is it worth it?
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/t/9a6902a43392b7ce?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 11:40 am
From: "Bob F"


Michael Black wrote:

>> I went through a simular thing to get a free
>> iPod. I thought it was worth it.
>>
> I found a 60gig iPod in a box of junk waiting for the garbage truck
> towards the end of June. I've yet to deal with it, but I'm hoping
> it's just the battery that needs replacing, I plug it into a usb
> outlet and the LCD tells me the battery voltage is very low, and it
> never gets better.
>
> If I can get it going with a new battery, that's right up there with
> the 17" LCD monitor I found on the sidewalk at the end of April when
> the students were all leaving town, and right up there with the DVD
> recorder I found last July in a recycling bin.
>

Try a real iPod charger on it. USB connection may not do it. Cheap ones are
available at dealextreme.com and other places. They also have batteries.

A very common problem on iPods is that connector to the hard drive comes loose
from being dropped. Open the case and unplug/replug the drive to fix it.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: replacement car tires
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/t/f3c01c800d47b4a2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 11:44 am
From: "Bob F"


Al wrote:
> My view is not standard on this, but I don't buy products based on
> warranty whatsoever. I'd buy a new car with no warranty if they would
> reduce the cost in line with the baked in warranty charge.

If a manufacturer doesn't offer a warrantee, they won't have proper motivation
to maintain the quality of their product.


== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 11:54 am
From: "Bob F"


Ohioguy wrote:
>> Either you are driving a lot, your car has poor suspension or you
>> must be buying really poor grade tires. At 120k miles, I've only
>> replaced two of the original tires on my Pilot (at 95k).
>
> It's mostly that I visually inspect the tires, which sit out in the
> sun all the time. Once I start to see even a tiny bit of cracking in
> the rubber sidewalls, I'll replace them. The used tire places
> probably love getting my tires, because they still have a lot of
> tread on them.
> In other words, we probably only put half of the wear on them that
> we could get. However, I don't think that $250 every 2 or 2.5 years
> is too much to spend in order to make sure the tires have good
> traction, and that a blowout our something is less likely when we
> take a long trip. Of course, now that the cost is getting up closer
> to $400, I'm less likely to replace them this often.

I have never felt the need to replace tires for that reason. Tiny cracks on the
outside rubber have no effect on the strength of the tire. The outside rubber
just protects the inside belts which provide the strength and inside rubber,
which seals the air in, from the sun. In my opinion, you are just throwing away
money by replacing them so often. The only tire failure from other than physical
damage or wear I've ever had was the Firestone tread separation problem that
resulted in recalls years ago.


== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 11:59 am
From: SMS


On 15/08/10 1:12 PM, Ohioguy wrote:
> Are the manufacturer warranties on tires worth anything?
>
> Typically, we replace our tires with new ones after about 2 or 2.5
> years, just so we don't risk being on vacation or something and having
> problems.
>
> In the past, I've always gone to the same place and had them install
> Dayton brand tires. I liked the fact that they were made in the USA, in
> a factory that employed about 1,800.
>
> We have a different car than we had last year, but my records show that
> the last time we got new tires was 2007. At that time, we paid $60 per
> tire. When I called yesterday, they said each would be about $88 -
> almost a 50% increase.

I was astounded by the price increases in tires in the past couple of years.

Costco is usually the cheapest place for tires, by far, and the savings
exceed the cost of the membership (if you're not already a member). It's
not the base price of the tires that's so different but the fact that
they don't gouge for mounting/balancing, they don't charge for
replacement valves, they don't charge for road hazard warranty, and they
will rotate and balance the tires at no charge.

Costco also uses nitrogen rather than plain air which isn't a huge deal,
but it does help the tires last a bit longer if you're not good about
checking tire pressure. Most tire places charge at least $5 per tire to
inflate with nitrogen, which isn't worth the extra cost.

One other thing good about Costco is that unlike most tire stores, they
actually honor, without a hassle, mileage warranties for tires (provided
you rotate the tires regularly). So they'll credit you, pro-rated, if
you don't get the rated mileage out of the tires.

Pro-actively replacing tires that aren't worn out is of little benefit.
If they're not really old tires that are deteriorating because of aging
of the rubber, the types of things that can happen on vacation would
affect new tires just as much as 2 year old tires. Just be sure that you
get tires at a place where when you're on vacation you can take
advantage of any road hazard warranty if needed.


== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 12:00 pm
From: SMS


On 15/08/10 1:12 PM, Ohioguy wrote:
> Are the manufacturer warranties on tires worth anything?

It depends on the tire dealer. Costco is very good about honoring
mileage warranties, while regular tire dealers often are not.


== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 1:49 pm
From: Clams <"Clams"@drunkenclam.com>


Bob F wrote: The only tire failure from other than physical
> damage or wear I've ever had was the Firestone tread separation problem that
> resulted in recalls years ago.
>
>


Got stuck there, in spades. My '74 Torino had them as original
equipment. I was a relatively high mileage driver at the time and they
wore through in less than 1.5 years (22k miles). By the time the recall
was made, they were long gone. I applied, but was told I must have the
damaged tires for compensation.

Never knowingly bought a Firestone item again, but got some joy when
they went bankrupt. Won't buy any Bridgestone product either since
they took over the firestone brand.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ★Cheap genuine Nike/adidas/converse shoes and A++ quality CK underwear,
ray-ban rb sunglasse wholesale/Retail/Droshipper Freeshipping
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/t/1f5851921f7286f4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 12:26 pm
From: Payt


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TOPIC: Substitute for cinder blocks in making temporary bookshelves?
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/t/92981ff9ab48c4ff?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 12:41 pm
From: The Real Bev


On 08/16/10 09:14, mike wrote:

> On Aug 16, 1:44 am, The Real Bev<bashley...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Fasten a stack of paperbacks together with twine. I'd suggest duct tape
>> for strength, but it tends to be permanent when you want it to be
>> temporary and temporary when you want it to be permanent.
>
> Interesting technique and beats mine on price. But I'd prefer to have
> wooden shelves. Saw someone build an entire temporary desk out of
> liquor store boxes--impressive looking, but not for me.

The tied-together books are the supports, not the shelves. A space- and
money-saving alternative to cinder blocks of any size.

Google for lego constructions -- I'm sure somebody has made a desk out
of them.

> At Home Depot, 1" x 6" x 12 ft "premium pine" (I'd settle for mediocre
> pine...) planks cost ~$10 each. Purchasing 2 of these, I could cut
> each in half and have 4 six-foot planks for $20. Six of the $1.27 each
> 8 X 8 X 8 half cinder blocks is $7.62. The back wall of the closet is
> longer than 6 ft, so they'll fit fine. So for $27.62 + tax, I'd have
> just under three rows of 5 ft. each (I lose space on each side due to
> the 8" blocks). Will Home Depot cut the planks for free?

'Knotty pine" (generally warped, and you had to pick each plank to avoid
the more difficult holes) 1/12 used to cost 3 cents a foot in the 60s,
when we put up a lot of shelves. Hard to believe, hun?

Some stores give you one free cut. You'll have to ask.

--
Cheers, Bev
-----------------------------------------
"Not everyone can be above average so why
shouldn't we be the ones to suck?"
--Anonymous School Board Member

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Straight Talk Prepaid: Unsolicited texts from TWC
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/t/24e5e022bbb4e742?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 12:44 pm
From: The Real Bev


On 08/16/10 10:46, Derald wrote:

> me@privacy.net wrote:
>
>>Anyone else using Straight Talk as a cell service?
> I'm not. Why?
>>
>>Are you getting daily UNSOLICITED texts for the weather
>>from TWC?
> Nope; I have text messaging disabled. Only disadvantage I've found
> is that DW no longer is able to email honey-do and shopping list
> modifications! LOL She's far less likely to place a voice call for
> trivial stuff.
> Why are you asking?

I got a couple of spam text messages on my T-Mobile prepaid phone. I
called T-Mobile customer service, who promised to disable 'commercial
text messages' on my number. Did they actually think that prepaid
customers would be willing to pay for this shit?

When I first opened a hotmail account I never used it for anything.
Nonetheless, it started accumulating spam from day one. I can only
conclude that the hotmail shitheads sell the addresses to spammers.


--
Cheers, Bev
-----------------------------------------
"Not everyone can be above average so why
shouldn't we be the ones to suck?"
--Anonymous School Board Member


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