Frugal Living: 24 new messages in 11 topics

misc.consumers.frugal-living
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living?hl=en

misc.consumers.frugal-living@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

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http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/f379293d4e7c75f9?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Was my home purchase in 2006 frugal?
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/9d0f58de213b13b6?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 8:11 am
From: clams_casino

Ron Peterson wrote:

>On Feb 16, 8:56 am, Joe <joe5...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>>On Feb 15, 11:38 pm, Ron Peterson <r...@shell.core.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>>Per month, of course. So, if you can rent something for $2,000 per
>>>month, it isn't a good idea to buy it for $400,000.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>>This cannot be true in the Northeast. If so no home would be a good
>>investment.
>>
>>
>
>The way I see it is that you need to spend about 6% interest expense,
>2% depreciation, 1% maintenance, 2% taxes, and 1% for realtor expense
>giving a total 12% per year cost for the value of the house.
>
>--
> Ron
>
>
>

Why the 2% depreciation if you include the maintenance.? Homes (in
most locations) tend to appreciate, not depreciate (over the long haul).

Furthermore, a significant portion of the taxes & interest are usually
offset by tax deductions.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Why do we pay for free stuff?
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/03a5b3cae08816d6?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 8:14 am
From: Drop_the_chalupa_RodSpeed

Steve wrote:
> Excerpts from http://edge.org/3rd_culture/kelly08/kelly08_index.html

Mindless commie drivel.
RodSpeed, get the Batcar ready!

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TOPIC: china 2008 Olympic Games wholesale NFL Jersey
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/709af4b3adff8553?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 8:15 am
From: amoyhy@gmail.com

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TOPIC: Quit Buying Junk and Destroying tThe Globe
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/04c61287dda5c12d?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 8:20 am
From: Drop_the_chalupa_RodSpeed

On Feb 16, 1:36 pm, clams_casino <PeterGrif...@DrunkinClam.com> wrote:
> Drop_the_chalupa_RodSpeed wrote:
> >On Feb 16, 12:02 pm, Cheapo Groovo <c...@nospam.com> wrote:
>
> >>http://cheapo
>
> >Commie!
>
> Don't you mean SPAMMER?

Commie!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Quick basic advice on a dripping gas 40-gal hot-water heater
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/e565eaf98e0e70b6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 12 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 8:19 am
From: "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 12:33:51 GMT, Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> No need to turn both off if the valves work, but can't hurt.

Hi Edwin,

Wow. You're good. You caught a bunch of nuances that I will both modify to
improve (and repost when the job's done) and a few I'll explain better.

In this case, as per advice here, Bill will be removing the existing
twisty-knob cold-water valve to because I asked him to replace that round
green "gate" valve with a red-lever-twist ball valve.

>> - Open all hot-water faucets in the house to drain off pressure
> One low valve will drain off the pressure in seconds.

Oh. OK. I was confused. I'll modify that. Some of the tutorials I read said
to open just one hot-water faucet while others said to open them all. I was
confused. I'll modify the tutorial so others following us benefit.

>> - Wait two hours, if possible, to allow the hot water in the tank to cool
>
> Turn the gas off the night before. Alternately, turnt he gas off, run the
> hot water to dilute what is in there a bit, then drain.

Good point. Actually, we take a long hot shower every morning and Bill has
been gone a while, so, we really wanted to take that last steaming hot
shower on the old tank so that's why I said it that way. It *is* a great
idea to bleed off the hot water so as to dilute the tank so that will be
added to the tutorial.

>> - Disconnect garden hose and close drain valve when done
> It won't drain unless you allow air to get in.
> Disconnect the top lines, then drain.

Good point. I realized I mixed the standard-maintenance drain procedure
with the removal procedure. For a maintenance drain, we'd open a hot-water
faucet. For a removal and replacement, we can disconnect the lines. Good
point. I will modify the tutorial so we all benefit.

>> - Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood
> In your parts list I did not see anything for the vent hood that will be 5"
> shorter. Can you just cut the existing flue pipe?

Very astute Edwin. The Sears guy, when showed pictures of what we had with
yardsticks taped in place said we could just tin snip or hack saw the
existing 3 inch vent pipe a few inches shorter. This will be the biggest
'modification' that we'll have to do to accomodatge the hugely larger
heater. The Sears salesman said it was so much larger because of all the
insulation. He even said we don't need any blanket as it wouldn't add any R
value, he said.

>> - Remove all gas plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve
> Why? I didn't see any gas fittings on the parts list.

Wow Edwin. You are very observant. After speaking to the Sears guy, we
tried to find a gas line that had an integrated on-off valve like the one
we have and we couldn't find any of them in his yellow hose collection. He
said the gas line doesn't corrode and our pictures we showed him show it to
be in good shape so we figured we'd keep the existing gas line. For the
tutorial, I did a "do as I say not as I do" but you caught me in my parts
list! Very clever!

Should I remove this part from the tutorial?
Does nobody replace the gas lines? (we're not going to).

>> - Open all the hot-water faucets in the house to bleed out air
> I'd leave them closed all along the way, save for one.

OK. I'll modify the hot water heater replacement how to.

Thanks for your astute advice - I'm happily surprised that others pay as
much attention to detail as I do in my home water heater replacement
tutorial!

Donna

== 2 of 12 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 7:30 am
From: "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 07:26:23 -0600, Vic Smith wrote:
> If your pipes are galvanized you don't need di-electric fittings.

Hi Vic Smith,
THIS IS MY BIGGEST CONFUSION!
I see only *some* of the hot water heater replacement guides saying to use
the di-electric fittings while others ignore it totally. Our existing
plumbing has galvanized connected to flex tubing connected to nipple on the
hot water heater.

> My guess is special tape/dope for NG is just bullshit to sell
> expensive sealers, but do what you prefer with that.

I was wondering why some hot water heater repair guides said to use Teflon
tape (TPFE?) on the water lines but pipe dope (TPE?) on the gas lines yet
the tube that I bought says it works for both gas and water. That's
confusing. I was careful to only state in my hot water heater step by step
guide just what I had read in other guides, taking the best except where
they conflicted.

> I use the same teflon tape for gas and water. As you've noted keep it
> off the first couple threads so it can't get in the pipe flow.
> I always look end-on to ensure that. Once inserted for tightening it
> can't move forward.

Excellent hint! I'll add it to the tutorial as an additional step!
Thanks for improving the a.h.r hot-water heater tutorial for others to
benefit!

> Unless it's the exact same tank, you will have to use different length
> nipples. Until the new tank is in place, you are guessing.

Sigh. This was my biggest hurdle. Trying to get accuracy where there was
none. That's why we bought so many plumbing extras!

> If you do it alone, do it when parts are available.

Yup. That's why we waited until after our morning showers on a Sunday. The
stores will be happy to sell us parts all day!

> You may find some of the old pipes/fittings scaled up and need
> replacing. Same with stop valves. This is the time to replace old
> questionable stuff.

We agree. Strangely, the cold-water pipes are all full of crusty white
baking-soda like crud while the hot-water side seems relatively free of
scale. We're still replacing everything, including the old round green
twist gate valve, with newer better plumbing like the red lever ball valve.

> Good luck. And let us know how it worked out.

Thanks Vic. I'd have to die trying in order not to report back to the
group. I'm the official photographer as Bill does the work (he hates my
flashing all around him) so I'll have complete step-by-step photos of the
job, starting from the fiasco when we tried to "save the box" the heater
came in.

Oh my! It was a disaster just getting the new hot water heater out of the
box, upside down, without damaging the box!

Donna

== 3 of 12 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 7:34 am
From: "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 06:19:34 -0500, Nate Nagel wrote:
> the nipples on the top of your new heater should already be dielectric,
> so adding a dielectric at the end of your water pipes would only protect
> the copper flex.

Hi Nate,
That dialectric stuff confuses me to no end.

The nipples already screwed into the top of the hot water heater seem to
have blue plastic inside them but they look like steel. I was actually
expecting two black steel female fittings in the top of the tank based on
what I saw at the store but this tank, when we finally got it out of the
box, has two whitish chromeyish nipples already screwed in.

Are you saying we can put the copper or stainless steel flex tubing
directly onto those two nipples sticking out of the top of the new hot
water heater?

Donna

== 4 of 12 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 7:52 am
From: "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 05:44:55 -0800 (PST), trader4@optonline.net wrote:
> I don't know why you continue to dismiss a 12 year warranty on the
> water heater as useless. You seem to be saying that because that is
> about the typical life of a water heater, that the warranty is of no
> value. Yet you value a 1 year warranty on labor?

Hi Trader,

Thanks for keeping up on this. Maybe I'm wrong on the warrantee but I took
logic in college and the warrantee seems like a useless marketing tool to
me when I read through what I have to do in order to "make good" on it.

It's hard for me to write this reply because I feel the warranty is only an
advertising gimmick which, to me, is only useful for the first year, mainly
because I'm never going to take the water heater apart and bring it to the
store to obtain the "free" replacement after the first year - and - the
alternative is to pay as much for the labor as the entire water heater cost
in the first place - so the "free" replacement costs just as much as the
original parts if I have a plumber come to me to inspect, diagnose, and
replace it. The warrantee seems absolutely useless to me, after the first
year given those realistic concerns.

Worse than that, I read the entire text of the Sears "12-year limited
warranty" which intimates Sears will replace parts that are defective and
the water heater itself *only* if it develops a leak (no other replacement
is warranted).

> installing it yourself, there is no labor anyway,
> so why is that even an issue?

This is the ENTIRE issue! If I have to remove the entire water heater in
order to bring it to the store just to see if they'll warrant the parts or
the leaking tank, that's absolutely crazy! Do people really remove their
water heater, truck it in the back of their car to the store, have someone
at the store look at it and decide whether or not to replace the parts,
then, if they decide not to, you truck it back home and re-install it? Or,
if they decide to replace the parts, they hand you the new parts and you
truck the whole drippy thing back home to re-install it? I think not.

If I need to make good on the warrantee, the only way I'll ever do it is to
call a Sears plumber at 800-469-4663 who will likely charge me as much for
the visit as the thing cost in the first place. Sure, I'll get a new water
heater - and it will cost me exactly what it cost when I bought it
considering I MUST use their labor. I have no choice this second time
around.

My whole point is the automobile analogy you provided is exactly opposite
of reality! You can easily DRIVE the car to the dealership to get a part
diagnosed and fixed but to drive your water heater to the Sears store would
be ludicrous (for me).

Do you see why the automobile analogy doesn't apply for a water heater?
Bringing the water heater to the dealer isn't an option.
To bring the dealer to the water heater costs as much as the water heater.
It's that simple to me.

Donna

== 5 of 12 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 8:52 am
From: Vic Smith

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 08:30:34 -0700, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer
Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 07:26:23 -0600, Vic Smith wrote:
>> If your pipes are galvanized you don't need di-electric fittings.
>
>Hi Vic Smith,
>THIS IS MY BIGGEST CONFUSION!
>I see only *some* of the hot water heater replacement guides saying to use
>the di-electric fittings while others ignore it totally. Our existing
>plumbing has galvanized connected to flex tubing connected to nipple on the
>hot water heater.
>
Di-electrics are used when collecting copper to steel. Newer homes
usually have all copper. Di-electrics usually come into play when
replacing the main service (the bigger supply lines) from galvanized
to copper, but leaving the plumbing wall galvanized pipes in place.
You would use a di-electirc union between the copper and galvanized.
I've never used flex on a hot water heater, but suppose that flex
connectors have the di-electric insulator built in. Should be some
specs attached to that type of connector.
>
>> You may find some of the old pipes/fittings scaled up and need
>> replacing. Same with stop valves. This is the time to replace old
>> questionable stuff.
>
>We agree. Strangely, the cold-water pipes are all full of crusty white
>baking-soda like crud while the hot-water side seems relatively free of
>scale. We're still replacing everything, including the old round green
>twist gate valve, with newer better plumbing like the red lever ball valve.
>
The hot and cold pipes could be different ages, or the mineral content
could precipitate differently that what has been my experience, which
is the hot water scaling up much more.
I wouldn't use a ball valve as a stop valve. For long term use I
believe a typical globe or gate valve will prove more reliable.

--Vic

== 6 of 12 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 8:59 am
From: msg

cavedweller wrote:

> On Feb 17, 12:07 am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
> <donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

<snip lengthy instructions and specifications>
>
> Now we know why good old Bill travels...............

Interesting; it struck me as both encouraging that a female would have
an engineering orientation and also a bit odd that such detail would
be accorded to a routine task.

Just out of curiosity, Donna, what is your employment or educational
background?

Michael

== 7 of 12 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 9:22 am
From: "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:59:36 -0600, msg wrote:
> odd that such detail would be accorded to a routine task.
> Donna, what is your employment or educational background?

Hi msg,

I retired from a career in public-school teaching two years ago.

At one point, I taught very young autistic and aspergers children; we found
the best therapy for their social disability was to break down even the
most mundane of tasks into their every component.

By behavioral modification, the children could perform the behavior on
their own, outside the classroom.

This is much like what a software engineer does when writing routine or
complex software, is it not?

Donna

== 8 of 12 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 9:24 am
From: "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:52:25 -0600, Vic Smith wrote:
> I've never used flex on a hot water heater, but suppose that flex
> connectors have the di-electric insulator built in. Should be some
> specs attached to that type of connector.

Hi Vic,

There is a black rubber grommet inside the copper flex tube's brass
fittings. Maybe that's the dialectric; but it's tremendously smaller than
the fist-sized dialectric unions we bought yesterday.

Donna

== 9 of 12 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 9:26 am
From: "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:52:25 -0600, Vic Smith wrote:
> The hot and cold pipes could be different ages, or the mineral content
> could precipitate differently that what has been my experience, which
> is the hot water scaling up much more.

Hi Vic,

I was thinking it was the condensation on the cold-water pipe (being in the
unheated garage) that allowed the scaley white crust to build up only on
the cold-water pipe.

We recently moved here so we don't know what the history is on the
hot-water pipe; maybe it is simply newer.

Donna

== 10 of 12 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 9:31 am
From: "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 11:04:53 -0500, clams_casino wrote:
On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 11:04:53 -0500, clams_casino wrote:
> Do get it right. A family recently died of carbon monoxide poisoning

Hi clams,

We *are* doing it right. That's why I'm here in the first place. To get it
right. I do appreciate the help. From everyone. And, I'll give back by
posting the tutorial for others like us to follow.

In fact, we feel we're possibly doing it *better* than a plumber might, at
least in terms of raw material. It seems to us (unsubstantiated opinion)
that a plumber might tend to maximize his *time* and not necessarily the
quality of the materials - unless specifically asked to by the homeowner
(who must correspondingly be willing to pay for the extra parts cost and
labor).

Bill is in his final shower as we speak. The gas is off.

He can sing in that steaming hot shower for as long as he likes and, for
once, I won't be on his back about wasting the hot water!

Donna

== 11 of 12 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 9:37 am
From: msg

Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator wrote:

> On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:59:36 -0600, msg wrote:
>
>>odd that such detail would be accorded to a routine task.
>>Donna, what is your employment or educational background?

<snip>
> I retired from a career in public-school teaching two years ago.
>
> At one point, I taught very young autistic and aspergers children; we found
> the best therapy for their social disability was to break down even the
> most mundane of tasks into their every component.
>
> By behavioral modification, the children could perform the behavior on
> their own, outside the classroom.
>
> This is much like what a software engineer does when writing routine or
> complex software, is it not?

Indeed, I almost labeled your post a "flow chart" but it didn't use the
standard conventions of flow charting ;-).

Are you planning on posting your photos and tutorial? What would be the URL?

Michael

== 12 of 12 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 9:39 am
From: Vic Smith

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 17:26:01 GMT, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer
Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:52:25 -0600, Vic Smith wrote:
>> The hot and cold pipes could be different ages, or the mineral content
>> could precipitate differently that what has been my experience, which
>> is the hot water scaling up much more.
>
>Hi Vic,
>
>I was thinking it was the condensation on the cold-water pipe (being in the
>unheated garage) that allowed the scaley white crust to build up only on
>the cold-water pipe.
>
>We recently moved here so we don't know what the history is on the
>hot-water pipe; maybe it is simply newer.
>
Could be. I was talking about the inside of the pipe, where
condensation isn't an issue. I've seen some hot water pipes which
were almost completely clogged with scale. I believe it's because
the heat causes the mineral solution to more readily deposit on the
steel.

--Vic

==============================================================================
TOPIC: How many therms (natural gas) do you use per day (per month)?
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/99d004d38152f87d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 16 2008 8:12 pm
From: "daestrom"

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:yvItj.756$pl4.153@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net...
> I'm curious how I compare with others in my natural gas usage.
>
> I used 120 therms in the past 30 days (about 4 therms per day).
> HOW MANY THERMS DID YOU USE LAST MONTH?
>
> I do realize that there are _many_ factors that affect usage but there is
> only one number for your final usage. That's what I'd like to compare.

Well if you don't pay attention to climate, you're data is going to be 'all
over the map'.

My bill for last month was 155 therms for a 2600 sqft house and family of
four (gas laundry, gas water heater, gas stove, gas furnace). That's about
5.2 Therm/day. Mind you, in upstate NY we average about 1200 degree-days in
January alone. So I average about 0.11 Therms/degree-day. My neighbors
think that's a pretty low bill for January.

daestrom

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 8:39 am
From: "daestrom"

"pepita@prodigy.net" <scrapquilter@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8ef5db73-8011-4dbb-82d1-b1aabb1ef711@c33g2000hsd.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 16, 3:24 pm, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
<donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I'm curious how I compare with others in my natural gas usage.
>
> I used 120 therms in the past 30 days (about 4 therms per day).
> HOW MANY THERMS DID YOU USE LAST MONTH?
>

My bill states 27 days in the last billing period. 158ccf is the
amount of natural gas that I am being billed for. Is that the same
unit you are referencing?

CCF stands for 'hundred cubic feet' (think of the Roman numeral for 100,
'C')

Since natural gas is almost pure methane in most parts, and methane has an
energy content of something like 1050 BTU/ft^3, then 100 ft^3 of methane is
about 105,000 BTU.

In many states, the gas company is required to sample their gas regularly
and analyse its true heating value. Based on this, they come up with a
conversion between CCF of their gas supply and BTU. For those billed in
'Therms', you will see CCF and a conversion to Therms somewhere on your
bill. If your usage is small (say, <100 CCF), the numbers come out the same
almost all the time. For higher usage there will be some difference in the
two (such as mine last month, 151 CCF and 155 Therm).

By billing in Therms, customers don't get 'cheated' into paying the same for
a cubic foot of low-grade NG that has significant amounts of CO2 mixed in it
as they would pay for higher-grade NG.

Maybe you're state regulates the gas content instead so that a CCF is
guaranteed a certain minimum heating value??

daestrom

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 9:57 am
From: hchickpea@hotmail.com

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 05:17:36 -0000, gheston@hiwaay.net (Gary Heston)
wrote:

>In article <fp81vi$gnn$2@news.datemas.de>, Marsha <mas@bex.net> wrote:
>>Gary Heston wrote:
> [ ... ]
>>> Since we just went through water usage, let me preempt the next inquiries:
> [ ... ]
>>> Garbage pickup $29.00
> [ ... ]
>
>>> As above, that's for two houses, total of about 1900 square feet, one
>>> occupant.
>
>>Is your garbage pickup through city workers or a private entity? It
>>seems a lot of people on this group pay more for garbage pickup than we
>>do, which is $30.00 every 3 months, unlimited. We are in a suburb. The
>>nearest city used to get free pickup, but they now have to pay an extra
>>$10.00/month.
>
>My pickup is by the city; with two houses, I pay two fees for one person.
>It's a flat rate per address, and I generate so little that I put out
>perhaps one can a month. Someone who puts out one every month pays the
>same as I do. No way around it, though.
>
>
>Gary

We pay $11/mo tacked on to the power bill, but were able to get one of
ours deferred by the health department (we have two power drops, one
on each side of the road.)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Predictions on oil costs for next decade
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/4d8ed6676617cb7f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 8:21 am
From: Drop_the_chalupa_RodSpeed

On Feb 16, 12:32 pm, Paul M. Eldridge <paul.eldri...@ns.sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> Along these same lines, I'm betting disco music, big hair, frilly
> shirts, bell bottoms and platform shoes will make a come back.

No, please no more Bee Gees.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Check out my spam
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/923d858b84ad6681?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 8:34 am
From: clams_casino

choppa504@gmail.com wrote:

>Check out my blog and let me know what you think.
>
>http://spam.blogspot.com/
>
>Thanks
>
>

I think you need to learn not to spam your blog - abuse@suddenlink.net .

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Stamps to Cost a Penny More
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/729cf5df8392523c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 8:54 am
From: Drop_the_chalupa_RodSpeed

On Feb 16, 1:32 pm, clams_casino <PeterGrif...@DrunkinClam.com> wrote:
> It's called eBay math. Millions of eBayers think they are making money
> with the same math.

Too funny. Up there with some kind of SNL skit. LOL.

I still think everything is about cash flow. Musical chairs if you
want to call it that. That is how banks and credit card entities
blueprint their existence IMHO. As a seller, I am constantly looking
at cash flow as well as profit. The conundrum is when markets go bust
and sellers are stuck with inventory. In the case of stamps, that is a
guarded market. For a 2.439% gross profit, that is a heck of a lot of
merchandise to move though.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: cheapforwholesale.com discount visvim dunk sb class nbasta shoes prada
jacket
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/5ced715482fc1973?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 17 2008 9:13 am
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