http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living?hl=en
misc.consumers.frugal-living@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* Living without a credit card - 7 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/1543df3db7e868b6?hl=en
* Canned Mackerel - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/f049abff31c44b3a?hl=en
* How much do you really save turning down the thermostat? - 6 messages, 3
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/e6b14ffb2d998b9e?hl=en
* more laptop selection help - 7 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/614f763badc82c6b?hl=en
* Christ in Islam - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/06c4482e668dd598?hl=en
* Discount wholesale AF1 Air Max Shoes,LV Bags,T-shirts, Nokia N95 Mobile
Phone, Lacoste Shoes,Gucci Handbags, Ipod Nano,Juicy Purses,Hoody, Jeans, MP3
MP4, GPS - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/097b533f5858accf?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Living without a credit card
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/1543df3db7e868b6?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 1:20 pm
From: "Daniel T."
The Etobian <pdcorcoran@myway.com> wrote:
> <daniel_t@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >Neil Jones <castellan2004-atnews@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >> I have problem with credit cards. I flash them for gas, sometimes for
> >> lunch, groceries etc. They are the small ticket items but are
> >> accumulating on my balance. Now that I have accepted that I have a
> >> problem, I want to really wean out of this reliance on credit card.
> >> Please share with me if anyone in this forum had this problem and have
> >> successfully detached from the credit card. The balance is really
> >> stressing me out.
> >
> >The credit card is not the problem, rather it is the fact that you are
> >spending more than you make that is the problem.
> >
> >1) Plan your spending before you spend your money. At the beginning of
> >the month, decide how much you are going to spend and what you are going
> >to spend it on. Don't spend more than you are going to make that month.
> >If you have a variable income, then don't spend more than you made last
> >month. Try to aim for spending about 10% less.
> >
> >2) Track your credit card balance as carefully as you track your
> >checkbook balance. It's a good idea to even keep an extra check register
> >on hand for credit card purchases and write them in the register when
> >you make a purchase.
> >
> >3) Make sure that your monthly statement balance is less this month than
> >it was last month, do that every month and you *will* pay off the pesky
> >card.
>
> 4) Build up your savings to at least 4 months take home pay. Use an
> online banking account to get interest over 4%. You could also have
> it direct deposited from your pay check. This money could be used for
> emergencies (new heating system, major car repairs) so you wouldn't
> have to use your credit card. Once you reach your savings goal,
> continue to save but put anything over your 4 months reserve in
> investment vehicles that could yiled higher than 4%. Keep your
> reserve liquid so you have a ready source of emergency funds.
I almost fell into that trap. I was saving up in my money market account
to pay my annual bills. Then with the help of someone here (sorry I
don't remember who,) I realized that it was costing me an extra $30 per
month average in CC interest to do that.
Now I put every spare dime into the credit card, keeping only about
$1000 buffer in my checking account (I need to maintain $750 in it for
it to be free, plus $250 in case something comes up.) Sometimes, I
manage to put whole paychecks into the credit card. When an annual bill
comes up, I pay it with the credit card.
This may sound counter-intuitive, but I use my credit card now more than
ever. I put almost my whole paycheck in it (leaving enough for rent and
utilities,) and then buy everything with it. My average balance is lower
because of this strategy which lowers my interest payments and the
amount I owe is steadily going down.
== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 1:24 pm
From: "Rod Speed"
Scott in SoCal <scottenaztlan@yahoo.com> wrote
> Just A User <ken@up-yours-spammer.net> wrote
>> I have 6 cards that I use on a rotating basis for normal
>> expenses. I pay the balance off every month.
> SIX cards?
> What's the advantage to rotating through 6 cards instead of just using 1 (or 2, or 3)?
The problem with 1 is that it isnt hard for that one to stop being viable
for some reason, like they sent the card very late, close to the renewal
date and you happened to be out of town on that date, or you managed
to run up against the limit accidentally, or the card stops being read in
the machines, or the card issuer stops the card because of what it
decides is evidence that its been stolen, or someone does steal from
the card and it takes a bit of time to get that reversed, etc etc etc.
Only a fool has just one card.
== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 1:43 pm
From: William Souden
Rod Speed wrote:
> Only a fool has just one card.
>
>
And welfare cases have no credit cards.
== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 3:04 pm
From: "Daniel T."
George Grapman <sfgeorge@paccbell.net> wrote:
> Get a debit card. You can use it just like a credit card except you
> can not spend the money if you do not have it.
Actually you can, and when you do the fees are through the roof.
== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 3:29 pm
From: "Daniel T."
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com> wrote:
> ...or the card issuer stops the card because of what it
> decides is evidence that its been stolen...
That happened to me once. A quick call to the number on the back of the
card cleared it up and I was able to use the card for that purchase.
== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 3:41 pm
From: George
Daniel T. wrote:
> "Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> ...or the card issuer stops the card because of what it
>> decides is evidence that its been stolen...
>
> That happened to me once. A quick call to the number on the back of the
> card cleared it up and I was able to use the card for that purchase.
Or they turn it off after it really is compromised. I was away from home
one day in another state. The card company called and asked if I was
making purchases in New Zealand and Austria. I told them I wasn't and
they said they were shutting the card off and would issue a new one.
Even though I am careful and seldom use the card someone got the info
and charged >$10,000 in a few hour period.
== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 4:39 pm
From: A Veteran
In article
<daniel_t-E3043E.18040902122007@earthlink.vsrv-sjc.supernews.net>,
"Daniel T." <daniel_t@earthlink.net> wrote:
> George Grapman <sfgeorge@paccbell.net> wrote:
>
> > Get a debit card. You can use it just like a credit card except you
> > can not spend the money if you do not have it.
>
> Actually you can, and when you do the fees are through the roof.
I rather enjoy my CC. Charge various monthly bills and pay it all off
every month. No charges. one stamp.
--
when you believe the only tool you have is a hammer.
All problems look like nails.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Canned Mackerel
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/f049abff31c44b3a?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 1:21 pm
From: PaPaPeng
On Sun, 02 Dec 2007 14:20:27 -0600, Logan Shaw
<lshaw-usenet@austin.rr.com> wrote:
>PaPaPeng wrote:
>> This is neat. I just bought a 115gm can of Mackerel, the flat can with
>> a pull tab to open it. Included inside is a plastic fork so that I
>> can eat from the can without further ado. Its a really brilliant
>> idea.
>
>How does the plastic fork not end up with fish juices and oil all over it?
>Is there a barrier between it and the fish? Or do you just have to wipe
>off the fork before using it?
>
> - Logan
Its packed outside the can but inside the cardboard box. Now that you
raised the point I didn't quite like the idea of the cardboard box as
it is unecessary landfill material. I think it will be a better idea
to incorporate a shallow spoon (with short fork tips) as part of the
pull tab for all canned non liquid food that can be eaten out of the
can..
To Al. Yes CDN1.59 is a bit overpriced for 115 gm of canned fish. A
regular 425 gm can of sardines form China is only CDN 1.29. I just
had to check out the CanAsia mackerel (love mackerel) as the picture
on the box looked so appetizing and bought one can of each in oil and
another in tomato sauce. The CanAsia fish is indeed more delicious,
cooked just right with the flesh just firm, slightly chewey, smooth
like fresh fish, and does really taste better. The regular sardines
turn powdery in the mouth, has a flat (overboiled) and somewhat fishy
taste that I disguise with chilisauce and chopped onions. The
Mackerel as a boneless steak I'd eat 'as is' to savor the flavor.
On fish, Chinatown grocery shops have a good selection of fresh frozen
fish, fish steaks and fillets you'll never fine in a western grocery
store. They are still pricey and, for me, too much work to prepare
and flavor to do them justice. My favorite in that section is whole
frozen smelts. CDN 2.09 for a 340 gm pack (good for 4 to 5 single
servings, real frugal). I nip off the head and throw in the rest
complete with fins, tail and stomach contents into the soup. The fins
are soft enough to swallow without problem. Its the stomach contents
that's the best part. It has a tangy, minty taste that goes well with
the fish. Smelts are gill feeders and the stomach contents are
planton. These are the 3 inch fish. The larger smelts (5 to 6 inches
whole, 4 inch gutted and headless ) go for CDN 2.99 for 340 gms.
Without the planton to me they don't taste as good.
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 1:59 pm
From: The Real Bev
PaPaPeng wrote:
> <lshaw-usenet@austin.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> How does the plastic fork not end up with fish juices and oil all
>> over it? Is there a barrier between it and the fish? Or do you
>> just have to wipe off the fork before using it?
Perhaps a napkin is included. Oh, wait...
> Its packed outside the can but inside the cardboard box. Now that
> you raised the point I didn't quite like the idea of the cardboard
> box as it is unecessary landfill material. I think it will be a
> better idea to incorporate a shallow spoon (with short fork tips)
The technical term for this implement is "spork". Serious backpackers
get titanium sporks.
> as part of the pull tab for all canned non liquid food that can be
> eaten out of the can..
The problem there is contamination from the outside.
> I just had to check out the CanAsia mackerel (love mackerel) as the
> picture on the box looked so appetizing and bought one can of each in
> oil and another in tomato sauce.
I've never understood people who think fish is edible.
> On fish, Chinatown grocery shops have a good selection of fresh
> frozen fish, fish steaks and fillets you'll never fine in a western
> grocery store.
Lots of things like that. Pork bungs, for instance. I really like the
fact that there are a lot of Asian markets around here. Unfortunately,
their bok choy contains no less sand than the stuff from ordinary markets.
> Smelts are gill feeders and the stomach contents are planton. These
> are the 3 inch fish. The larger smelts (5 to 6 inches whole, 4 inch
> gutted and headless ) go for CDN 2.99 for 340 gms. Without the
> planton to me they don't taste as good.
This is information that will stay with me LOTS longer than I'd like.
--
Cheers, Bev
============================================
Buckle Up. It makes it harder for the aliens
to suck you out of your car.
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 3:04 pm
From: "AllEmailDeletedImmediately"
"Anthony Matonak" <anthonym40@nothing.like.socal.rr.com> wrote in message
news:4752fa98$0$16509$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> Dennis wrote:
> ...
>> I'd bring up the hazards of mercury, but I guess that ship has sailed.
>
> Mercury is like lead... If it was bad for you they wouldn't put it in
> so many things. :)
>
add in hfcs.
> Anthony
>
==============================================================================
TOPIC: How much do you really save turning down the thermostat?
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/e6b14ffb2d998b9e?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 1:34 pm
From: "Rod Speed"
Joe <joe5345@gmail.com> wrote:
> I'm struggling with the idea between keeping my thermostat
> at 66 degrees which I need to wear at least two layers of
> clothing around my house to feel comfortable and 69 degrees
> with which I can walk around comfortably in a t-shirt. Has any
> actually calculated actual savings of turning down the thermostat?
That isnt possible to do in general, it depends on
how lossy your house is, how well insulated it is.
For example, if its perfectly insulated, the thermostat
setting will make no difference to the cost.
> I've read all the articles about how you can save
> 10% per each degree you turn down your thermostat
Thats just a number plucked from someone's arse.
> but I would like to see if anyone actually
> have some real numbers to back me up.
Wont help much with your costs.
> I'm not sure it's worth $30 a month to live like this.
Sure, thats certainly one consideration.
== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 1:38 pm
From: "Rod Speed"
clams casino <PeterGriffin@drunkin-clam.com> wrote:
> Joe wrote:
>
>> I'm struggling with the idea between keeping my thermostat at 66
>> degrees which I need to wear at least two layers of clothing around
>> my house to feel comfortable and 69 degrees with which I can walk
>> around comfortably in a t-shirt. Has any actually calculated actual
>> savings of turning down the thermostat? I've read all the articles
>> about how you can save 10% per each degree you turn down your
>> thermostat but I would like to see if anyone actually have some real
>> numbers to back me up. I'm not sure it's worth $30 a month to live
>> like this.
> No hard figures, but logically there is a savings for any reduced temp level
Nope, not when its well insulated enough.
> (except with heat pumps).
Just as true of heat pumps. You're confusing the other problem with
heat pumps, the overnight setback, with the daytime lower setting.
> I suggest using programmable thermostats with several daily time adjustments. They should pay for themselves within
> months.
Easy to claim, hell of a lot harder to actually substantiate that claim.
> For a start, we have up and down zones / thermostats. During the day, we keep the upstairs at 62 (doors shut so the
> heat from downstairs stays primarily downstairs), with the heat increased to 68 early evening and down to 66 about
> midnight.
> Downstairs, we set the thermostat at 62 at 10pm & step up the temp to
> 66 about 4am, 67 at 8am, 68 and 3pm and 69 at 5pm. When we leave the
> house, we drop the thermostat a few degrees and usually reset as we
> enter. The thermostat is near the door we use most, so it's no bother
> to hit the buttons up / down as desired. During the morning, 66-67
> can be comfortable, but there is always a chill about the time the
> sun drops so the change helps keep the comfort..
> This will not work with a heat pump (secondary heating will kill the savings),
Not if it doesnt use secondary heat.
> but should work with gas & oil.
== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 2:31 pm
From: Usenet2007@THE-DOMAIN-IN.SIG
In article <4d1cb135-03bd-4b61-9616-
83f3692d03f1@p69g2000hsa.googlegroups.com>, joe5345@gmail.com
says...
> I'm struggling with the idea between keeping my thermostat at 66
> degrees which I need to wear at least two layers of clothing around my
> house to feel comfortable and 69 degrees with which I can walk around
> comfortably in a t-shirt. Has any actually calculated actual savings
> of turning down the thermostat? I've read all the articles about how
> you can save 10% per each degree you turn down your thermostat but I
> would like to see if anyone actually have some real numbers to back me
> up. I'm not sure it's worth $30 a month to live like this.
It depends on other factors.
If one person has good insulation and weatherstripping on
windows/doors, then the heat will stay in. And the heater or
furnace won't need to kick in as often. Regardless of where the
thermostat is set. If another person has poor insulation, and
drafts blowing in around window/door cracks, then the heater or
furnace will have to work harder.
I made sure to apply weatherstripping to windows and doors when I
moved into my current place, before the first winter.
And I don't have any problem with wearing a couple of layers (or
more) while at home. It isn't like I have to look good by some
snooty office/retail dress code standard. And thermal underwear
is good for all occasions.
--
Earn Money With Your Web Site
http://www.WebSponsorZone.Net
Web Site Advertising Directory
== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 2:35 pm
From: Usenet2007@THE-DOMAIN-IN.SIG
In article <sv56l3tt498vi4htn19ki2rd65f17iksj8@4ax.com>,
thismailautodeleted@comcast.net says...
> On Sun, 2 Dec 2007 12:27:39 -0800 (PST), Joe <joe5345@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >I'm struggling with the idea between keeping my thermostat at 66
> >degrees which I need to wear at least two layers of clothing around my
> >house to feel comfortable and 69 degrees with which I can walk around
> >comfortably in a t-shirt. Has any actually calculated actual savings
> >of turning down the thermostat? I've read all the articles about how
> >you can save 10% per each degree you turn down your thermostat but I
> >would like to see if anyone actually have some real numbers to back me
> >up. I'm not sure it's worth $30 a month to live like this.
> The problem is dealing with others in the house. I gave up trying to
> convince them the savings was worth it.
> The best I could get out of them was 69 degrees - and they're still
> bitching.
Just tell them to put on their fashionable retro-70s "Jimmy
Carter" brand sweaters. With the little embroidered grinning
mouth logo.
--
Earn Money With Your Web Site
http://www.WebSponsorZone.Net
Web Site Advertising Directory
== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 3:41 pm
From: "Bob F"
<Usenet2007@THE-DOMAIN-IN.SIG> wrote in message
news:MPG.21bcd1f75334b168989de8@nntp.aioe.org...
> In article <4d1cb135-03bd-4b61-9616-
> 83f3692d03f1@p69g2000hsa.googlegroups.com>, joe5345@gmail.com
> says...
>> I'm struggling with the idea between keeping my thermostat at 66
>> degrees which I need to wear at least two layers of clothing around my
>> house to feel comfortable and 69 degrees with which I can walk around
>> comfortably in a t-shirt. Has any actually calculated actual savings
>> of turning down the thermostat? I've read all the articles about how
>> you can save 10% per each degree you turn down your thermostat but I
>> would like to see if anyone actually have some real numbers to back me
>> up. I'm not sure it's worth $30 a month to live like this.
>
>
> It depends on other factors.
>
> If one person has good insulation and weatherstripping on
> windows/doors, then the heat will stay in. And the heater or
> furnace won't need to kick in as often. Regardless of where the
> thermostat is set. If another person has poor insulation, and
> drafts blowing in around window/door cracks, then the heater or
> furnace will have to work harder.
>
Even if the house is leaky, turning down the thermostat saves energy. Even more,
in fact.
Bob
== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 3:39 pm
From: "Bob F"
"clams casino" <PeterGriffin@drunkin-clam.com> wrote in message
news:P1F4j.14098$KK1.11291@newsfe24.lga...
> Joe wrote:
>
>>I'm struggling with the idea between keeping my thermostat at 66
>>degrees which I need to wear at least two layers of clothing around my
>>house to feel comfortable and 69 degrees with which I can walk around
>>comfortably in a t-shirt. Has any actually calculated actual savings
>>of turning down the thermostat? I've read all the articles about how
>>you can save 10% per each degree you turn down your thermostat but I
>>would like to see if anyone actually have some real numbers to back me
>>up. I'm not sure it's worth $30 a month to live like this.
>>
>
>
> No hard figures, but logically there is a savings for any reduced temp level
> (except with heat pumps).
Keeping the thermostat down will cut costs even with heat pumps.
The only issue with heat pumps is raising the setting too much at a time, unless
you have a way to disable the secondary heat. If the secondary heat is disabled,
even big changes are no problem.
When I had a heat pump installed, they wired the trermostat so that setting the
"emergency" switch on disabled the strip heaters.
Bob
==============================================================================
TOPIC: more laptop selection help
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/614f763badc82c6b?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 2:07 pm
From: "AllEmailDeletedImmediately"
"Gary Heston" <gheston@hiwaay.net> wrote in message
news:13l5rhhon7hkt4d@corp.supernews.com...
> In article <r8A4j.3888$xB.1301@trndny06>,
> AllEmailDeletedImmediately <derjda@hotmail.com> wrote:
> You can find some information about the differences between 32-bit and
> 64-bit architecures here:
>
>
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/64-bit
i don't usually think to go to wikipedia because anyone can write up
anything
for it.
> The primary limitation is memory. Software _never_ gets smaller, so buy
> a system that you can expand to 4GB when you need to. If you decide to
> run Vista (not recommended), you should start with 1GB.
>
> Get a CPU with a large cache--2MB minimum, 4GB is better; trade off clock
> speed for more cache. Get a fast hard drive. You're not doing things that
> push the limits of current technology, so the rest isn't critical.
the memory, cache and drive speed were all at the top of my list. since
most
off the shelf machines come with vista preloaded, i should get a custom
built one? what xp software would i load on it? i have a copy of xp, but
it's
registered to this current machine and dh will be using it. do the shops
still
sell xp? i thought ms was getting ready to stop supporting it.
oh, and now dh is thinking he'd like the laptop to deal with lyric, a
graphics
manipulating program (he'd prefer final cut pro but he says it usually run
on a mac).
just threw that at me today. so know i'm really looking at 4+G memory, min
2G cache,
7200rpm hd and really a good graphics card (like a gamer needs? anyone got
suggestions?)?
i just know this is gonna hit at least 2k (lyric not included), but getting
proficient in lyric
will let him get more overtime/freelance work. maybe a desktop with all
that stuff since
they're cheaper and get a laptop more for just what i need? might not be
much more than
the laptop all loaded up.
thanks for the help, gary.
>
> Gary
> Yoko Onos' former driver tried to extort $2M from her, threating to
> "release embarassing recordings...". What, he has a copy of her album?
the ONLY copy?
== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 2:01 pm
From: Paul Pluzhnikov
Logan Shaw <lshaw-usenet@austin.rr.com> writes:
> A "bit" is in fact a digit. In fact, it's a contraction of the words
> "binary" and "digit".
No, it isn't: there are 2 binary digits: '0' and '1'. A bit is a
single binary digit, i.e. a 0 or a 1. Where is the contradiction?
> 32-bit computers have different instructions sets than 64-bit computers.
Partially true: 64-bit processors usually have additional instructions.
> With a 32-bit computer, the instructions are written as 32-bit numbers.
Completely false for all Intel (and compatible) processors.
True for most 32-bit RISC processors (but that isn't what makes
them 32-bit).
> With a 64-bit computer, the instructions are written as 64-bit numbers.
Completely false for all common 64-bit processors.
> That's the most important difference right there.
Except it isn't even close to reality.
This isn't the right forum for discussing computer architecture,
but your understanding of 32-bit vs. 64-bit difference is quite
incorrect.
Cheers,
--
In order to understand recursion you must first understand recursion.
Remove /-nsp/ for email.
== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 2:52 pm
From: "AllEmailDeletedImmediately"
"Logan Shaw" <lshaw-usenet@austin.rr.com> wrote in message
news:47531cb6$0$8880$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> AllEmailDeletedImmediately wrote:
snip
> Of course, as somebody else said, you almost can't buy anything *but*
> a 64-bit computer these days, so it doesn't really matter. But now
> you know.
thank you logan. this is what i was intuitively understanding but unable
to put into words. and gi joe to you, too! :) <<<---if you don't
understand,
let me know.
== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 2:57 pm
From: "AllEmailDeletedImmediately"
"Paul Pluzhnikov" <ppluzhnikov-nsp@charter.net> wrote in message
news:m3bq98vjrv.fsf@somewhere.in.california.localhost...
> Logan Shaw <lshaw-usenet@austin.rr.com> writes:
>
>> A "bit" is in fact a digit. In fact, it's a contraction of the words
>> "binary" and "digit".
>
> No, it isn't: there are 2 binary digits: '0' and '1'. A bit is a
> single binary digit, i.e. a 0 or a 1. Where is the contradiction?
i'm guessing because there are 2 digits in the binary numbering: 0 and 1,
hence (b)inary dig(its) = bits?
>
>> 32-bit computers have different instructions sets than 64-bit computers.
>
> Partially true: 64-bit processors usually have additional instructions.
>
>> With a 32-bit computer, the instructions are written as 32-bit numbers.
>
> Completely false for all Intel (and compatible) processors.
> True for most 32-bit RISC processors (but that isn't what makes
> them 32-bit).
>
>> With a 64-bit computer, the instructions are written as 64-bit numbers.
>
> Completely false for all common 64-bit processors.
>
>> That's the most important difference right there.
>
> Except it isn't even close to reality.
>
> This isn't the right forum for discussing computer architecture,
> but your understanding of 32-bit vs. 64-bit difference is quite
> incorrect.
thank you for your info, paul. i've tried the computer groups way
back when for info, but they were always explaining over my head.
== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 3:03 pm
From: "AllEmailDeletedImmediately"
"Dennis" <dgw80@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fhu5l3dcqgh0plugenba4gf9ducarf95og@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 02 Dec 2007 15:26:15 GMT, "AllEmailDeletedImmediately"
> <derjda@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>thank you everyone who helped me out. i'm learning and getting there.
>>
>>this is another question about the diff betw the turion 64x2 and the intel
>>core 2 duo. for what i do, i'd think either would work fine at this
>>time.
>>
>>i think i read that the intel is a 32x2; is that correct?
>>
>>if so, would there be an advantage to getting the turion 64x2 in terms of
>>future software/hardware? i'm not sure what the 32 and the 64 mean.
>>would software written for the 32 run on the 64? vice versa? is software
>>most likely to be written for one over the other in the future? does it
>>even affect the software? :) i'm thinking it might because i know there
>>are terms like 32 bit platform and 64 bit platform and i think this might
>>be
>>what it refers to, but, i'm a real dummy when it comes to hardware :(
>>
>>i usually keep my computer until i really need a new one in terms of
>>software, so i'm trying to make sure that the one i get will be able to
>>handle future software as far into the future as possible.
>>
>>thanks for all the help.
>>
>
> To run 64-bit applications, you would need to install a 64-bit OS.
> Generally, you would only need 64-bit OS/applications if you needed
> really large amounts of memory and did lots of crunching of big
> numbers. I suspect that neither would be an issue for you with the
> type of use you describe. Bottom line: either processor could
> accomodate a 64-bit OS, but you likely will never need one so don't
> sweat it.
that's what i kinda thought, but now dh has tossed something else into the
mix. it's in one of the later posts. might make a diff, now. thanks
for
the help, o evil one :)
>
>
> Dennis (evil)
> --
> I'm behind the eight ball, ahead of the curve, riding the wave,
> dodging the bullet and pushing the envelope. -George Carlin
>
== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 3:32 pm
From: Paul Pluzhnikov
"AllEmailDeletedImmediately" <derjda@hotmail.com> writes:
> i'm guessing because there are 2 digits in the binary numbering: 0 and 1,
> hence (b)inary dig(its) = bits?
Yes, that's the etymology of "bit".
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bit
> thank you for your info, paul. i've tried the computer groups way
> back when for info, but they were always explaining over my head.
For your practical purpose, the difference between 32-bit and 64-bit
CPU is as follows:
1. On a 64-bit Intel (or compatible) CPU you can run one of the
64-bit operating systems (OSes), such as Windows XP for x64,
Vista for x64, or Linux/x86_64.
(You can't run 64-bit OSes if you only have 32-bit CPU).
(You *can* run 32-bit OSes on 64-bit CPUs, and most systems sold
today are configured exactly that way.)
2. If you are running 64-bit OS, then you can run 64-bit applications
(such as Photoshop) on your computer.
(You can't run 64-bit applications if you are using 32-bit OS).
3. If you are using 64-bit application, then such application can
use much more memory (at once) than an equivalent 32-bit
application can. A 32-bit application can not easily use more than
2GB of memory on Windows, but 64-bit application can easily
use 6GB, or even 20GB.
When could point 3 matter?
Consider a 10 mega-pixel digital camera. An uncompressed image from
that camera will occupy at least 30 MBytes of RAM, when loaded in
its entirety into Photoshop (each pixel is described by 3 bytes --
the values of the 3 primary colors). This means that 32-bit Photoshop
will likely run out of memory if you try to load a 100 of such
pictures at once (2GB is 2048MB, and you are trying to use 3000MB).
So, *today* you are not very likely to run into too many 32-bit
limitations, unless you are doing professional digital photography,
or HD-video work.
Cheers,
P.S. Don't look for 4GB of cache either, such systems do not exist,
and are unlikely to ever exist. You are looking for 4MB cache,
not 4GB cache.
--
In order to understand recursion you must first understand recursion.
Remove /-nsp/ for email.
== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 3:52 pm
From: "AllEmailDeletedImmediately"
"Paul Pluzhnikov" <ppluzhnikov-nsp@charter.net> wrote in message
news:m37ijwvfj3.fsf@somewhere.in.california.localhost...
> "AllEmailDeletedImmediately" <derjda@hotmail.com> writes:
>
snip
> P.S. Don't look for 4GB of cache either, such systems do not exist,
> and are unlikely to ever exist. You are looking for 4MB cache,
> not 4GB cache.
see what i mean :)
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Christ in Islam
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/06c4482e668dd598?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 3:19 pm
From: George
231 wrote:
> AllEmailDeletedImmediately <derjda@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> here's what i know:
>
> Nope.
>
>> my God has a Son name Christ Jesus.
>
> You dont know that.
231 formally known as "Rod",
But since a negative can never be proved how do you know?
>
>> islam's god does not.
>
> Its the same god, stupid.
>
>> therefore they cannot be the same god
>
> Or it is the same god and its devotees cant get the basics right.
>
>> and they are not, no matter how hard islam tries to horn in and claim it as so.
>
> Just as true of the stupid xtians.
>
>> allah IS NOT the same god as the God of the hebrew and christians.
>
> Easy to claim. Hell of a lot harder to actually substantiate that claim.
>
> In spades that there is any 'god' at all.
>
>
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==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 2 2007 3:20 pm
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