Frugal Living: 25 new messages in 10 topics

misc.consumers.frugal-living
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living?hl=en

misc.consumers.frugal-living@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

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TOPIC: Sorta Off Topic - Looking For Ideas...
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/74df284a95a4127a?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 4:10 pm
From: nr

You could have a silent auction for the motorcycle.

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TOPIC: Use patio furniture as front room furniture?
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/f67d143f0a103614?hl=en
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== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 4:35 pm
From:
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"rox" <roxanne.gray@att.net> wrote in message
news:SKntj.607202$kj1.395253@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>
> <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
> news:fmvbr31bo4bnsfu3eng45gng5arc9v2cd1@4ax.com...
>> Am on a very tight budget
>>
>> anyone ever think abt using patio furniture indoors as
>> front room furniture?
>>
>> You can buy a well made set of patio furniture....
>> chair, love seat, coffee table, end table... for abt
>> $500 total. It is lightweight and sturdy and made of
>> plastic "wicker".
>>
>> Anyone doing it? Work ok?
>>
>> see link
>>
>> http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=2519819
>
> Buying furniture that's cheap but uncomfortable (and be honest no one
> wants to lay on wicker patio furniture and watch TV on a lazy Sunday
> afternoon) is not frugal as you will have to replace it for something more
> functional and comfortable. And patio furniture is rarely "sturdy" at
> that price.
>
> You can buy a full set of real living room furniture at a second hand or
> thrift shop for under $200. Or you can go to yard sales. I live 14 miles
> outside of New York City, one of the most--if not the most--expensive
> areas to live in and I paid $50 for a couch that was in perfect condition.
> I found a sturdy "This End Up" chair at the curb--they are all wood, no
> cushions, and look like packing crates--very easy to clean. I bought 2
> new pillows for it, so that cost me $20. Even with the cost/time to clean
> a used set you'll be better off in the long run.
>
> If you are not in a hurry, you can be selective about what set you buy.
> You might even find one for free on craigslist or freecycle
>

Although...if you're planning to have an outside patio or deck and are in a
temporary need for inside furniture, there's nothing wrong with buying for
the outside and then waiting until the snow melts to move it from the living
room to the deck. We did that when we bought our house and found the perfect
outside set. We couldn't afford both the outside and the living room
furniture at the same time, and we hadn't found anything we loved for
inside. It worked great for us for 3 months, although I wouldn't have wanted
to do it for much more than that. Once the snow melted, I was ready for a
real couch! Good luck!

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 5:57 pm
From: "Lou"

<me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:fmvbr31bo4bnsfu3eng45gng5arc9v2cd1@4ax.com...
> Am on a very tight budget
>
> anyone ever think abt using patio furniture indoors as
> front room furniture?
>
> You can buy a well made set of patio furniture....
> chair, love seat, coffee table, end table... for abt
> $500 total. It is lightweight and sturdy and made of
> plastic "wicker".
>
> Anyone doing it? Work ok?

I've seen students do it, and a couple of people just out of school,
furnishing a first apartment, not started their first job yet. My sister
and her husband bought a small (600 square feet) beach house years ago, and
patio furniture was some of their indoor furniture for the first couple of
years (but had a "real" couch and chair as well).

I wouldn't recommend it unless you have no choice.

You can do better (both comfort and looks) for the same money or less - I
have a full size, comfortable, good looking couch I bought at a second-hand
furniture store. The guy in the store said it was a display model at some
furniture store, and when they were done selling that season's stuff, his
store got the items that were on displayed on the store floor. I forget
what I paid - something on the order of $50-$100, plus a $10 delivery
charge. When I replaced my dining room set (Hitchcock, table and six
chairs, good quality stuff we inherited and used for years, but not our
preferred style) I put it on consignment at that same store - I think we got
$100-$200 for the set. Sadly, that furniture company went out of business
in 2006.

I also have another real couch in my home office - bought on sale at a
department store, covered in the fabric of my choice. It's also a sleeper,
opens up to a queen size bed with a mattress. Paid $200 for it, delivered.

I've had both items for years, and they still look and feel like new.

One day a coworker and I were driving back to the office after going out for
lunch and passed a motel that had a sign out front saying they were
redecorating and selling all the room furniture. We stopped, and she bought
a really nice sleeper couch for $50. That evening she went back with some
friends and they bought two more - and when they got them home and opened
them up, one had a full set of sheets and two good pillows folded in.

When I moved from my first house, I had to get rid of some stuff. I sold a
good, clean, working refrigerator for $50, and a sturdy, like new set of
patio furniture (pvc pipe furniture with cushions) for less than $100. A
few years ago, I gave away a large deep freeze I no longer needed. When my
mother-in-law passed away, we sold her kitchen set (table and four chairs),
two living room upholstered reclining chairs, a bed frame (with mattress)
and dresser, for $85. It was either that or throw the stuff away - I was
more than willing to donate this stuff to some charity, but places like
Goodwill wanted to charge us to come and get that stuff.

This sort of thing is catch as catch can - you have to be aware of what's
being offered, sometimes in unconventional places, and prepared to make a
quick decision and act on it, so it won't do if for some reason you need
furniture right now. But if there's no urgency, wait and look around.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Quick basic advice on a dripping gas 40-gal hot-water heater
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/e565eaf98e0e70b6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 4:53 pm
From: "Lou"

"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:Nt6tj.40274$Ly.30911@pd7urf1no...
> >
> Hi,
> EPA figure is based on sea level wht IDEAL driving condition, weather,
> road, wind, temp., etc.

Considering that the EPA's National Vehicle and Fuel Emissions Laboratory is
located in Ann Arbor, Michigan, and that Ann Arbor is about 840 feet above
sea level, and that the EPA conducts its own tests at this facility, I think
your claim that the mileage figures are based on sea level conditions is
suspect.

Considering that starting in 2008 supplementary tests are conducted to
estimate the effects of high speed (up to 80 mph), use of air conditioning,
and cold temperatures (down to 20 degrees F), the claim that current figures
represent ideal conditions also seem somewhat out of sync with the facts.

== 2 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 5:06 pm
From: "Lou"

<hallerb@aol.com> wrote in message
news:d2cd4f76-5a5a-405d-926c-e20711942f37@s37g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
>
> > EPA figure is based on sea level wht IDEAL driving condition, weather,
> > road, wind, temp., etc.
>
> EPA numbers are bogus the worst were on vehicles like PRIUS.
>
> tests always favor the manufacturer..........
>

According to the EPA's fuel economy guide for 2008, the Prius is rated at
48/45 for city/highway. The 2008 model year isn't very far advanced and
there's only 23 2008 models listed in the shared fuel economy estimates, but
those drivers claim actual mileage of 35 to 56 mpg, with an average of 43.5,
I'd say the estimates aren't that bad. The best driver claims an average of
56.2 mpg for 38% stop and go and 62% highway driving - that car is driven in
Arizona. The worst driver claims a mere 35.1 for a car driven in
California - no percentages for city/highway are given.

== 3 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 5:14 pm
From: "Lou"

"Only Just" <ifixit2@hotmail(dot)com> wrote in message
news:47b573a0$1@dnews.tpgi.com.au...
>
> "Edwin Pawlowski" <esp@snet.net> wrote in message
> news:E7etj.6146$xq2.2565@newssvr21.news.prodigy.net...
> >
> > "Vic Smith" <thismailautodeleted@comcast.net> wrote in message
> >>>
> >>>Whichever figure is right and whatever the explanation, it still seems
to
> >>>me
> >>>that the mileage estimates published by the EPA are too low, and it's
> >>>seemed
> >>>that way ever since I started paying attention (way too many years
ago).
> >>>
> >> Might be they don't account for your driving style. Might be
> >> something else - not interested enough to look into it, but I'm
> >> sure they lab test versus "real world."
> >
> >
> > The news 2008 figures take real life into consideration and are much
> > closer to reality. Previous figures were ideal lab conditions.
> >
>
> It all points down to the fact that average Joe citizen can't tell the
> difference unless he can find out exactly how they take all these
> measurements (The method used and exactly what figures) that each company
> used and how (If they did) manipulated those figures to get the result as
> they publish. The main thing that the Government is interested in is a
> standard across the relevant industry so everyone can make a comparison.
> Justy.

Anyone with access to the web can look up how the tests are done. The
testing protocols are federally mandated, everyone must use the same test,
10%-15% of the tests are confirmed by the EPA, and the only mileage figures
the manufacturers can advertise are the ones coming out of the tests.
Vehicles weighing over 8500 pounds (vehicle, all fluids, maximum carrying
capacity) are exempt from testing.

== 4 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 5:15 pm
From: "Lou"

<hallerb@aol.com> wrote in message
news:4ee42934-d646-4a41-a191-b01c05be3ada@s37g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 15, 10:33 am, trad...@optonline.net wrote:
> On Feb 15, 8:43 am, "hall...@aol.com" <hall...@aol.com> wrote:
>
> > -
>
> > > The tests are performed by independent labs to the EPA test procedures
> > > and standards. ? It's not up to the maufacturers to decide how to
> > > test, nor can they manipulate the results for the cars. ? Same thing
> > > for the water heaters.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > no the manufactuers knowing the test procedures tweak the product to
> > look as good as possible
>
> Yes, some of that can certainly be going on. But trying to change
> the design of the product slightly to come out better in the standard
> EPA test is a lot different than claiming the tests themselves are not
> uniform because the manufacturer gets to decide the test method, how
> the test is done, etc, and then manipulates the results they publish.

> well everyone knew the old tests werent valid yet it took many years
> to get them changed

Yes, they weren't valid - the numbers they gave were to low - my mileage was
always better than the EPA estimates.

== 5 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 5:23 pm
From: 58plumbers@gmail.com

> >> A cost that nobody seems to have factored in, is removal and disposal of
> >> the oldwaterheater.
>
> > Cost? I get money for the old units at the recycler, it's an insignificant
> > amount, but probably enough to cover the fuel spent getting it there.

Somewhere I saw the cost as 10 dollars at Home Depot for removal of
the old heater.
That's of course if you pay the 400 dollars for installation in the
first place.
Otherwise, the cost is to leave it outside for a week until someone
with a pickup takes it to the recyclers for you.

== 6 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 5:40 pm
From: msg

Lou wrote:
<snip>

>
> Considering that starting in 2008 supplementary tests are conducted to
> estimate the effects of high speed (up to 80 mph), use of air conditioning,
> and cold temperatures (down to 20 degrees F), the claim that current figures
> represent ideal conditions also seem somewhat out of sync with the facts.

20 degrees F cold? It is high time that automotive design and testing
accommodate the northern climates where cars last about as long as a snowflake
on a hot radiator. Test in International Falls in February on a track
laden with salt and urea at minus 20 degrees F.

Michael

== 7 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 5:52 pm
From: Vic Smith

On Fri, 15 Feb 2008 20:15:51 -0500, "Lou"
<lpogodajr292185@comcast.net> wrote:

>
><hallerb@aol.com> wrote in message
>news:4ee42934-d646-4a41-a191-b01c05be3ada@s37g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
>On Feb 15, 10:33 am, trad...@optonline.net wrote:
>> On Feb 15, 8:43 am, "hall...@aol.com" <hall...@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>> > -
>>
>> > > The tests are performed by independent labs to the EPA test procedures
>> > > and standards. ? It's not up to the maufacturers to decide how to
>> > > test, nor can they manipulate the results for the cars. ? Same thing
>> > > for the water heaters.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> > no the manufactuers knowing the test procedures tweak the product to
>> > look as good as possible
>>
>> Yes, some of that can certainly be going on. But trying to change
>> the design of the product slightly to come out better in the standard
>> EPA test is a lot different than claiming the tests themselves are not
>> uniform because the manufacturer gets to decide the test method, how
>> the test is done, etc, and then manipulates the results they publish.
>
>> well everyone knew the old tests werent valid yet it took many years
>> to get them changed
>
>Yes, they weren't valid - the numbers they gave were to low - my mileage was
>always better than the EPA estimates.
>
Well, they got farther from your experience. They now say your
highway mileage is even lower.

--Vic

== 8 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 5:53 pm
From: Vic Smith

On Fri, 15 Feb 2008 06:34:01 -0800 (PST), N8N <njnagel@hotmail.com>
wrote:

>
>I still post there occasionally, but a lot of the intelligent regulars
>have left and a lot of idiots and trolls have moved in :( The Impala
>is a company provided vehicle, I don't have any MoPars at the moment
>as my old Dart was a complete beater and not worth restoring, and
>prices of good ones are rising. I do have a Porsche 944 that I bought
>as a daily beater before I got a job with a company car, and my "real"
>car is a '55 Studebaker - just as bulletproof as a MoPar, but
>apparently not as collectible yet, so prices are still reasonable. Of
>course, it's still somewhat apart after I lost my mind after a simple
>gasket replacement turned into a drivetrain replacement...
>
>nate

BTW, I found that the Impala never came with a 3.1.
It's a 3.4 or 3.8.

--Vic

== 9 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 6:27 pm
From: Vic Smith

On Fri, 15 Feb 2008 13:16:27 -0600, jakdedert
<jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

>>
>That's because you have access to the recycler, know where it is, and
>have a vehicle suitable to transport...also the time. I know it's
>trivial to many--but monumental to others. I'd be hard-pressed to get a
>50 gallon water heater in my old Corolla, although it could be done
>(it's a station wagon). I'd want to put in several layers of padding
>and some waterproofing. Many would not want to do so in their late
>model Whizzmobiles.
>
>Like I said, I've seen a lot of discarded water heaters....
>
All depends on locale. I replaced mine last year and the old one was
gone in a couple hours. Night before garbage pickup the scavengers
tour this area.
My Corsica sedan isn't much bigger than your car, and I tied the
new one to the roof to get it home, saving 50 bucks delivery.
I use blankets on the roof and lots of rope sideways and fore and aft
when I do that, so it's a bit of a hassle. But I don't want another
vehicle for hauling, since I seldom do it. Don't have space for a
trailer.
If I lived where I had to haul away the old tank, I might just pay for
the install and avoid the hassle.

--Vic

== 10 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 6:30 pm
From: Nate Nagel

Vic Smith wrote:
> On Fri, 15 Feb 2008 06:34:01 -0800 (PST), N8N <njnagel@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>>I still post there occasionally, but a lot of the intelligent regulars
>>have left and a lot of idiots and trolls have moved in :( The Impala
>>is a company provided vehicle, I don't have any MoPars at the moment
>>as my old Dart was a complete beater and not worth restoring, and
>>prices of good ones are rising. I do have a Porsche 944 that I bought
>>as a daily beater before I got a job with a company car, and my "real"
>>car is a '55 Studebaker - just as bulletproof as a MoPar, but
>>apparently not as collectible yet, so prices are still reasonable. Of
>>course, it's still somewhat apart after I lost my mind after a simple
>>gasket replacement turned into a drivetrain replacement...
>>
>>nate
>
>
> BTW, I found that the Impala never came with a 3.1.
> It's a 3.4 or 3.8.
>
> --Vic

Duh, brain fart on my part. It is indeed a 3.4, which is a 2.8/3.1
based engine. Same basic engine, but larger displacement.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

== 11 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 6:34 pm
From: "Clot"

N8N wrote:
> On Feb 14, 11:16 pm, Vic Smith <thismailautodele...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>> On Thu, 14 Feb 2008 20:53:12 -0500, "Lou"
>>
>> <lpogodajr292...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Whichever figure is right and whatever the explanation, it still
>>> seems to me that the mileage estimates published by the EPA are too
>>> low, and it's seemed that way ever since I started paying attention
>>> (way too many years ago).
>>
>> Might be they don't account for your driving style. Might be
>> something else - not interested enough to look into it, but I'm
>> sure they lab test versus "real world."
>> Think you said you had an Impala, and the 3.1 engine coupled with the
>> GM lockup trans is an efficient combo. I consistently get 30-31 mpg
>> highway with mine ('97 Lumina) over a long stretch of varied terrain.
>> Measured by actual gas pumped into the tank over many thousands of
>> miles. My '88 Celebrity with the 2.8 did about 28 mpg, but always had
>> a heavier passenger load.
>>
>> --Vic
>
> It is HEAVILY dependent on driving style. In daily commuting (DC
> traffic, lots of accelerating/slowing down) I get horrible mileage but
> I too was getting about 30 MPG over the holidays, driving back and
> forth to visit my parents (90% highway) same drivetrain as you, '05
> Impala, 3.1/auto.

Wholly agree! my principal motor is an '02 Ford Focus 1.8 diesel - yes, I
know you don't have that across The Pond. It has just turned 125k miles
today and during that time has done 43.3 miles to the US gallon - close to
the brochure figure though I can't remember the exact number at this moment.
It's been a cracking good motor with little to complain about. If it lives
up to the performance of the two Fiesta diesels I've had, it should be good
for 250k before I either send it to its maker in the sky or sell it for
peanuts.

I gather from recent press comments here in Europe that you are about to be
exposed to high quality diesel motors from Europe soon. They are good and do
not have the air quality problems that you might associate with diesel
trucks. Have you noticed the tightening emission standards for them - both
in the US and Europe? Done me proud with shares in Johnson Matthey!

Diesel needs less refining than gas and therefore less energy in production,
emits less CO2 per gallon and has higher mpg, plus in real life has more
grunt than petrol (gas) units. Go for it!

They also display less variation in mpg between the urban and long distance
figures. In case you think I'm grossly biased, I also run a Peugeot 306
petrol and an 07 Peugeot 206cc diesel - now that's a little monster in
sheep's clothing - either 115 or 125 bhp in a shopping trolley. Great fun
and approx. 45 mp USg. Little too early to call having only done less than
3000 miles as yet.

PS I log all fuel and average over the entire life of the unit.

== 12 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 6:39 pm
From: "Clot"

trader4@optonline.net wrote:
> On Feb 15, 8:43 am, "hall...@aol.com" <hall...@aol.com> wrote:
>> -
>>
>>
>>
>>> The tests are performed by independent labs to the EPA test
>>> procedures and standards. ? It's not up to the maufacturers to
>>> decide how to test, nor can they manipulate the results for the
>>> cars. ? Same thing for the water heaters.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> no the manufactuers knowing the test procedures tweak the product to
>> look as good as possible
>
> Yes, some of that can certainly be going on. But trying to change
> the design of the product slightly to come out better in the standard
> EPA test is a lot different than claiming the tests themselves are not
> uniform because the manufacturer gets to decide the test method, how
> the test is done, etc, and then manipulates the results they publish.

Agreed, like installing a gearbox that suits the test conditions rather than
every day use.

== 13 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 6:55 pm
From: "hallerb@aol.com"

on hot water tanks, in pennsylvania theres no sales tax on a installed
tank, but 7% if you take home and install yourself.

$28 on a 400 buck tank. that taken off install price can make doing it
yourself not worth the effort.

sales tax has lots of wierd rules

== 14 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 7:08 pm
From: "Clot"

hallerb@aol.com wrote:
> on hot water tanks, in pennsylvania theres no sales tax on a installed
> tank, but 7% if you take home and install yourself.
>
> $28 on a 400 buck tank. that taken off install price can make doing it
> yourself not worth the effort.
>
> sales tax has lots of wierd rules

Yup, sure does. Even here in the UK, we have problems fathoming out Value
Added Tax (VAT) rules. However, I'm sure you didn't mean to respond to my
post! :)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cheap wholesale air max sneakers: max 87,max 90,max95,max97,max2003,max
180,max 360, max TN,max ltd,max Nz,air max for women and children.
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/b8f0581afe172c02?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 5:06 pm
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== 1 of 1 ==
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== 1 of 1 ==
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TOPIC: Was my home purchase in 2006 frugal?
http://groups.google.com/group/misc.consumers.frugal-living/browse_thread/thread/9d0f58de213b13b6?hl=en
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== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 5:59 pm
From: "Lou"

"Ron Peterson" <ron@shell.core.com> wrote in message
news:f4fd3b80-6681-4065-b4f4-bf46d73ac95b@s37g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 14, 12:37 pm, Joe <joe5...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I just read this article detailing how home prices in the Northeast
> dropped 4.8% from 2006-2007. I purchased my home in Aug 2006 and knew
> prices were going to drop but our situation left me very little choice
> so I justified my purchase at the time thinking the worst case
> scenario is that my house value will drop around 5% a year, well it
> did, but I still figure that I'm ahead of the game considering 5% of
> my purchase price is still less than I would have paid in rent for
> 2007. That money would have been thrown away never to be seen again
> anyway. Now I know I am still on the hook for taxes and upkeep of the
> house but my quality of life is drastically different than living in
> an apartment so I consider that expense a wash. Am I wrong in
> justifying my purchase this way? Can anyone point out if my thinking
> is off on this?

The rule of thumb is that your house should rent for 1% of its
purchase price.

per day? per week? per month? per . . .

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 15 2008 6:04 pm
From: "Lou"

"clams_casino" <PeterGriffin@DrunkinClam.com> wrote in message
news:Lwgtj.189$QC.155@newsfe20.lga...
> Lou wrote:
>
> >"Joe" <joe5345@gmail.com> wrote in message
> >news:dd07afed-9e4e-49b7-a94a-515efe282466@u10g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
> >
> >
> >>I just read this article detailing how home prices in the Northeast
> >>dropped 4.8% from 2006-2007. I purchased my home in Aug 2006 and knew
> >>prices were going to drop but our situation left me very little choice
> >>so I justified my purchase at the time thinking the worst case
> >>scenario is that my house value will drop around 5% a year, well it
> >>did, but I still figure that I'm ahead of the game considering 5% of
> >>my purchase price is still less than I would have paid in rent for
> >>2007. That money would have been thrown away never to be seen again
> >>anyway. Now I know I am still on the hook for taxes and upkeep of the
> >>house but my quality of life is drastically different than living in
> >>an apartment so I consider that expense a wash. Am I wrong in
> >>justifying my purchase this way? Can anyone point out if my thinking
> >>is off on this?
> >>
> >>
> >
> >I think you're wrong in even thinking about it until, when, and if the
> >occasion arises where you again must make a choice to buy a house or not.
> >What's done is done, you can't go back and not buy the house, and
fretting
> >over past mistakes or gloating over past triumphs won't change the
present
> >and say nothing about the future.
> >
> >For what it's worth, I bought my present house a little over 18 years
ago,
> >at pretty near the top of the last real estate cycle, and within a year
the
> >market price of the house had dropped around 20%. If I had sold within a
> >year or two of buying, I would have taken a beating, but I didn't and
prices
> >recovered and then some even before the recent boom.
> >
> >One result of that experience is that I don't see that a price drop of 5%
is
> >any big deal - maybe tough on someone who bought recently and must sell
for
> >whatever reason, but in terms of normal market fluctuations no big deal.
> >
> >Do you like living there more than your last rental? Is the after tax
cost
> >more, or less, or the same than it would be if you were a renter instead?
> >If you can answer yes to the first and less or the same to the second,
you
> >have all the justification you should need. Even if the answer to the
> >second is more, you still have all the justification you need provided
> >you're not having problems paying the bills.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Reminds me of my first home. When I bought during the high inflation /
> recession mid 70's, everyone though we were nuts - especially to have
> 6% mortgage. That home doubled in price within 7 years - one of my
> better investments (sold it in 81 to someone glad to find a 16% mortgage).

6%? I felt I was lucky to get a mortgage for only 10.5%. (My daughter had
to walk 5 miles to school too, barefoot in the snow, uphill both ways.) My
parents, especially, thought we were crazy, insane, had more money than
brains. It nearly tripled in price in 10 years.

> It's probably not wise to justify a home solely on investment. If
> investment is your primary objective, you are probably not ready for
> home ownership. There will always be more costs than you can ever
> anticipate.

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== 1 of 1 ==
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